France in eighteen hundred and two : $b Described in a series of contemporary lettersYorke, Henry Redhead
History
France in eighteen hundred and two : $b Described in a series of contemporary letters
Yorke, Henry Redhead
France -- Description and travel
Luzarches is seven miles from Chantilly. We were compelled to stop for
some time at a miserable inn in this wretched town. One of the wheels
of our carriage was broken, and it was necessary to have it repaired.
In a miserable room, containing two dirty beds, cold and famished
(for we could not touch a morsel that was brought to us), we remained
seven hours. The wheel being repaired we proceeded to Ecouen and from
thence to S. Denys, but we quitted the public road for the purpose of
visiting the Castle of Ecouen, built by Anne de Montmorency, Constable
of France. The Château is completely stripped of furniture, even the
tapestry being torn away. Two hundred unhappy Vendéans were imprisoned
here. It was converted later into a military hospital. Upon the whole
nothing is now left of this stately Castle but the walls. It stands
on an eminence and commands an extensive prospect. There is a large
kitchen garden in front of the grand entrance. A Swiss, formerly in the
service of Spain during the siege of Gibraltar, is entrusted with the
care of the place. He conducted us over every part of the Castle.
[Sidenote: JOURNEY TO S. DENYS]
It has all the appearance of a modern prison, and does not convey that
appearance of feudal grandeur which distinguishes the Castles on the
banks of the Danube and the Rhine.
We arrived at a late hour at the S. Denys post-house, where we were
well lodged and comfortably entertained, and early the next day went to
visit the Cathedral.
My astonishment was great when the old Swiss, whom I remembered ten
years before, opened the door, and I perceived this once beautiful
gothic edifice was a heap of ruins. My guide entered into my sentiments
of horror and disgust, and certainly did not spare the authors of
this devastation. The tombs and mausoleums of the Kings and Queens
of France, of Guesclin, of Turenne, and of the most illustrious
warriors and great men, were deposited in various compartments of
the Cathedral, and formed a striking and splendid decoration. But
these, together with the oriflamme of Clovis, the sceptre and sword
of Charlemagne, the portrait and sword of the Maid of Orleans, the
bronze chair of Dagobert, the reliques and shrines, royal robes and
crowns, ancient manuscripts and an immense number of curiosities,
sacred and profane--now all vanished; some destroyed: others, by the
industry of Monsieur Le Noir, removed to the museum of French monuments
in Paris. The Cathedral is unroofed, and it is fraught with peril to
traverse any part of it, for stones are continually falling. Our Swiss
described with minute precision where every tomb stood, from Pepin to
Louis XV. A small room formerly used as a sacristy our pious guardian
had converted into an ossory. And here lay in one indistinguished
heap the bones of kings, princes and heroes, who for ages had slept
undisturbed in the mansions of death. I inquired into the cause of
all this ruthless destruction, and was told that the Revolutionary
Committee of S.
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