Frank's Ranche; Or, My Holiday in the Rockies: Being a Contribution to the Inquiry into What We Are to Do with Our BoysMarston, E. (Edward)
General
Frank's Ranche; Or, My Holiday in the Rockies: Being a Contribution to the Inquiry into What We Are to Do with Our Boys
Marston, E. (Edward)
Rocky Mountains -- Description and travel
"The change in the scene is so startling, and the appearance of the
landscape so wholly novel and so singularly grotesque, that you rub
your eyes to make sure that you are not dreaming of some ancient
geologic epoch, when the rude, unfinished earth was the sport of
Titanic forces, or fancying yourself transported to another planet.
Enormous masses of conglomerate—red, grey, black, brown, and blue,
in towers, pyramids, peaks, ridges, domes, castellated
heights—occupy the face of the country. In the spaces between are
grassy, lawn-like expanses, dotted with the petrified stumps of huge
trees. The finest effect of colour is produced by the dark red
rock—not rock in fact, but actual terra-cotta, baked by the heat of
underlying layers of lignite. At some points the coal is still on
fire, and the process of transforming mountains of blue clay into
mountains of pottery may be observed from day to day. It has been
going on for countless ages, no doubt. To bake one of these colossal
masses may have required 10,000 years of smouldering heat. I despair
of giving any adequate idea of the fantastic forms of the buttes or
of the wonderful effects of colour they offer. The pen and brush of
a skilful artist would alone be competent for the task. The
photographer, be he never so deft with his camera and chemicals,
only belittles these marvellous views. He catches only bare
outlines, without colour, and colour is the chief thing in the
picture. He cannot get the true effect of distance, and his
negatives show only staring blacks and whites in place of the
infinite variations of light and shadow effects in valleys and
gorges and hollows, and upon crags and pinnacles. Look, if you can,
by the feeble aid of written words, upon a single butte, and see how
impossible it is to photograph it satisfactorily. It rises from a
carpet of green grass. Its base has a bluish hue, and appears to be
clay solidified by enormous pressure. It is girdled by bands of
light grey stone and black lignite coal. Its upper portion is of the
rich red colour of old Egyptian pottery. Crumbled fragments strew
its sides. Its summit, rising 300 feet above the plain, has been
carved by the elements into turrets, battlements, sharp spires,
grotesque gargoyles, and huge projecting buttresses—an amazing
jumble of weird architectural effects, that startle the eye with
suggestions of intelligent design. Above, the sky is wonderfully
clear and blue, the rays of the setting sun spread a rosy tint over
the crest, and just above its highest tower floats a little
flame-coloured cloud like a banner. When I say there are thousands
of these buttes, the reader will perceive that the Bad Lands of the
Little Missouri are a region of extraordinary interest to the
tourist and artist."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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