Transcriber's Note. Apparent typographical errors have been corrected. The inconsistent use of hyphens has been retained. Italics are indicated by _underscores_. Small capitals have been replaced by full capitals. [Illustration: CONVENT OF SOLOVETSK IN THE FROZEN SEA.] [Illustration: RUSSIAN INFANTRY ON EASTERN STEPPE ESCORTED BY KOZAKS AND KIRGHIZ.] FREE RUSSIA. BY WILLIAM HEPWORTH DIXON. AUTHOR OF "FREE AMERICA." "HER MAJESTY'S TOWER." &c. [Illustration] _NEW YORK_: HARPER & BROTHERS, PUBLISHERS. FRANKLIN SQUARE. 1870. PREFACE. _Svobodnaya_ Rossia--_Free_ Russia--is a word on every lip in that great country; at once the Name and Hope of the new empire born of the Crimean war. In past times Russia was free, even as Germany and France were free. She fell before Asiatic hordes; and the Tartar system lasted, in spirit, if not in form, until the war; but since that conflict ended, the old Russia has been born again. This new country--hoping to be pacific, meaning to be Free--is what I have tried to paint. My journeys, just completed, carried me from the Polar Sea to the Ural Mountains, from the mouth of the Vistula to the Straits of Yeni Kale, including visits to the four holy shrines of Solovetsk, Pechersk, St. George, and Troitsa. My object being to paint the Living People, I have much to say about pilgrims, monks, and parish priests; about village justice, and patriarchal life; about beggars, tramps, and sectaries; about Kozaks, Kalmuks, and Kirghiz; about workmen's artels, burgher rights, and the division of land; about students' revolts and soldiers' grievances; in short, about the Human Forces which underlie and shape the external politics of our time. Two journeys made in previous years have helped me to judge the reforms which are opening out the Japan-like empire of Nicolas into the Free Russia of the reigning prince. _February, 1870._ _6 St. James's Terrace._ CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I.--UP NORTH 11 II.--THE FROZEN SEA 16 III.--THE DVINA 20 IV.--ARCHANGEL 24 V.--RELIGIOUS LIFE 29 VI.--PILGRIMS 34 VII.--FATHER JOHN 40 VIII.--THE VLADIKA 46 IX.--A PILGRIM-BOAT 51 X.--THE HOLY ISLES 57 XI.--THE LOCAL SAINTS 62 XII.--A MONASTIC HOUSEHOLD 68 XIII.--A PILGRIM'S DAY 73 XIV.--PRAYER AND LABOR 78 XV.--BLACK CLERGY 84 XVI.--SACRIFICE 91 XVII.--MIRACLES 96