In the praams the life is a little less bleak and rough than it is on
board the rafts. In form the praam is like the toy called a Noah's
ark; a huge hull of coarse pine logs, riveted and clamped with iron,
covered by a peaked plank roof. A big one will cost from six to seven
hundred rubles (the ruble may be reckoned for the moment as half a
crown), and will carry from six to eight hundred tons of oats and rye.
A small section of the praam is boarded off to be used as a room. Some
bits of pine are shaped into a stool, a table, and a shelf. From the
roof-beam swings an iron pot, in which the boatmen cook their food
while they are out in the open stream; at other times--that is to say,
when they are lying in port--no fire is allowed on board, not even a
pipe is lighted, and the watermen's victuals must be cooked on shore.
Four or five logs lashed together serve them for a launch, by means of
which they can easily paddle to the bank.
Like the rafts, these praams take on board a great many pilgrims from
the upper country; giving them a free passage down, with a supply of
tea and black bread as rations, in return for their labor at the
paddle and the oar. Not much labor is required, for the praam floats
down with the stream. Arrived at Archangel, she empties her cargo of
oats into the foreign ships (most of them bound for the Forth, the
Tyne, and the Thames), and then she is moored to the bank, cut up, and
sold. Some of her logs may be used again for building sheds, the rest
is of little use, except for the kitchen and the stove.
The new port of Archangel, called Solambola, is a scattered handful of
log houses, that would remind you of a Swiss hamlet were it not for
the cluster of green cupolas and spires, reminding you still more
strongly of a Bulgarian town. Each belfry bears a crescent, crowned by
a cross. Along the brink of the river runs a strand, some six or eight
feet above the level plain; beyond this strand the fields fall off, so
that the country might be laid under water, while the actual strand
stood high and dry. The new port is a water-village; for in the
spring-time, when the ice is melting up stream, the flood goes over
all, and people have to pass from house to magazine in boats.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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