Among the Little Russ--in the old Polish circles of the south and
west, you see a village group of another kind. Instead of the grimy
logs, you have a predominant mixture of green and white; instead of
the formal blocks, you have a scatter of cottages in the midst of
trees. The cabins are built of earth and reeds; the roof is thatched
with straw; and the walls of the homestead are washed with lime. A
fence of mats and thorns runs round the group. If every house appears
to be small, it stands in a yard and garden of its own. The village
has no streets. Two, and only two, openings pierce the outer
fence--one north, one south; and in feeling your way from one opening
in the fence to another, you push through a maze of lanes between
reeds and spines, beset by savage dogs. Each new-comer would seem to
have pitched his tent where he pleased; taking care to cover his hut
and yard by the common fence.
A village built without a plan, in which every house is surrounded by
a garden, covers an immense extent of ground. Some of the Kozak
villages are as widely spread as towns. Of course there is a church,
with its glow of color and poetic charm.
From Kief on the Dnieper to Kalatch on the Don, you find the villages
of this second type. The points of difference lie in the house and in
the garden; and must spring from difference of education, if not of
race. The Great Russians are of a timid, soft, and fluent type. They
like to huddle in a crowd, to club their means, to live under a common
roof, and stand or fall by the family tree. The Little Russians are of
a quick, adventurous, and hardy type; who like to stand apart, each
for himself, with scope and range enough for the play of all his
powers. A Great Russian carries his bride to his father's shed; a
Little Russian carries her to a cabin of his own.
The forest melts and melts! We meet a woman driving in a cart alone; a
girl darts past us in the mail; anon we come upon a wagon, guarded by
troops on foot, containing prisoners, partly chained, in charge of an
ancient dame.
This service of the road is due from village to village; and on a
party of travellers coming into a hamlet, the elder must provide for
them the things required--carts, horses, drivers--in accordance with
their podorojna; but in many villages the party finds no men, or none
except the very young or the very old. Husbands are leagues away;
fishing in the Polar seas, cutting timber in the Kargopol forests,
trapping fox and beaver in the Ural Mountains; leaving their wives
alone for months. These female villages are curious things, in which a
man of pleasant manners may find a chance of flirting to his heart's
content.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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