A while ago the whole of these Slavonic tribes were still nomadic; a
people of herdsmen, driving their flocks from plain to plain, in
search of grass and water; camping either in tents of skin, or in
frames of wood not much more solid than tents of skin; carrying with
them their wives and children, their weapons of war, and their
household gods. They chased the wild game of their country, and when
the wild game failed them, they ate their flocks. Some few among them
tilled the soil, but only in a crude and fitful way--as an Adonan
tends his patch of desert, as a Pawnee trifles with his stretch of
plain; for the Slavonic husbandman was nearly as wild a wanderer as
the driver of kine and goats. His fields were so vast, his kin so
scattered, that the soil which he cropped was of no more value to him
than the water he crossed, the air he breathed. He never dreamt of
occupying his piece of ground after it had ceased to yield him, in the
unbought bounty of nature, his easy harvest of oats and rye.
Some trace of these wandering habits may still be found, especially in
the pilgrim bands.
These pilgrim bands are not a rabble of children and women, gay and
empty folk, like those you meet when the vintage is gathered in Sicily
and the south of France; mummers who take to the pilgrim's staff in
wantonness of heart, and end a week of devotion by a feast in the
auberge and a dance under the plaintain leaves. At best that French or
Sicilian rabble is but a spent tradition and a decaying force. But
these Northern pilgrims are grave and sad in their doings, even as the
North is grave and sad. You never hear them laugh; you rarely see them
smile; their movements are sedate; the only radiance on their life is
the light of prayer and praise. Seeing these worshippers in many
places and at many times--before the tomb of Sergie near Moscow, and
before the manger at Bethlehem, I have everywhere found them the same,
in reverence, in humility, in steadfastness of soul. One of these
lowly Russ surprised me on the Jordan at Bethabara; and only yesterday
I helped his brother to cross the Dvina on his march from Solovetsk.
The first pilgrim had visited the tombs of Palestine, from Nazareth to
Marsaba; the second, after toiling through a thousand miles of road
and river to Solovetsk, is now on his way to the shrines at Kief. As
my horses rattled down the Dvina bluffs I saw this humble pilgrim on
his knees, his little pack laid by, and his forehead bent upon the
ground in prayer. He was waiting at the ford for some one to come
by--some one who could pay the boatman, and would give him a passage
on the raft. The day had not yet dawned; the wind came up the river in
gusts and chills; yet the face of that lowly man was good to see; a
soft and tender countenance, shining with an inward light, and glad
with unearthly peace. The world was not much with him, if one might
judge from his sackcloth garb, his broken jar, his crust of black
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account