A man who in other days would have followed his sheep and kine, now
seeks a wild sort of freedom as a pilgrim, hugging himself on his
immunity from tax and rent, from wife and brat; migrating from
province to province; a beggar, an impostor, and a tramp; tickled by
the greeting of young and old as he passes their door, "Whither, oh
friend, is the Lord leading thee?" Sooner or later such a man falls in
with a band of pilgrims, which he finds it his good to join. The
Russian Autolycus slings a water-bottle at his belt, and his female
companion limps along the forest road on her wooden staff. You meet
them on every track; you find them in the yard of every house. They
creep in at back-doors, and have an assortment of articles for sale,
which are often as precious in the eyes of a mistress as in those of
her maid; a bit of rock from Nazareth, a drop of water from Jordan, a
thread from the seamless coat, a chip of the genuine cross. These are
the bolder spirits: but thousands of such vagrants roam about the
country, telling crowds of gapers what they have seen in some holy
place, where miracles are daily performed by the bones of saints. They
show you a cross from Troitsa; they give you a morsel of consecrated
bread from St. George. They can describe to you the defense of
Solovetsk, and tell you of the incorruptible corpses of Pechersk.
These are the impostors--rank and racy impostors--yet some of these
men and women who pass you on the roads are pious and devoted souls,
wandering about the earth in search of what they fancy is a higher
good. A few may be rich; but riches are dust in the eyes of God; and
in seeking after His glory they dare not trust to an arm of flesh.
Equally with his meekest brother, the rich pilgrim must take his
staff, and march on foot, joining his brethren in their devotions and
confessions, in their matins and their evening song.
Most of these pilgrim bands have to beg their crust of black bread,
their sup of sour quass, from people as poor as themselves in money
and almost as rich in the gifts of faith. Like the hadji going to
Mecca, a pilgrim coming to Archangel, on his way to the shrines, is a
holy man, with something of the character of a pope. The peasant, who
thinks the crossing of his door-step by the stranger brings him
blessings, not only lodges him by night, but helps him on the road by
day. A pilgrim is a sacred being in rustic eyes. If his elder would
let him go, he would join the band; but if he may not wend in person,
he will go in spirit, to the shrine. A prayer shall be said in his
name by the monks, and he will send his last kopeck in payment for
that prayer by the hand of this ragged pilgrim, confident that the
fellow would rather die than abuse his trust.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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