No one suspects a pilgrim. With a staff in his hand, a sheepskin on
his back, a water-bottle at his belt, and a clot of bass tied loosely
round his feet, a peasant of the Ural Mountains quits his home, and
makes no merit of trudging his two or three thousand miles. On the
river he takes an oar, on the wayside he endures with incredible
fortitude the burning sun by day, the biting frost at night. In Moscow
I heard the history of three sisters, born in that city, who have
taken up the pilgrim's staff for life. They are clever women,
milliners by trade, and much employed by ladies of high rank. If they
could only rest in their shop, they might live in comfort, and end
their days in peace. But the religious and nomadic passions of their
race are strong upon them. Every year they go to Kief, Solovetsk, and
Jerusalem; and the journey occupies them forty-nine weeks. Every year
they spend three weeks at home, and then set out again--alone, on
foot--to seek, in winter snow and summer heat, salvation for their
souls. No force on earth, save that which drives an Arab across the
desert, and a Mormon across the prairie, is like this force.
In the hope of seeing these pilgrim bands, of going with them to
Solovetsk, and studying them on the spot, as also of inquiring about
the convent spectre, and solving the mystery which for many years past
connected that spectre with the Romanof family, I rounded the North
Cape, and my regret is deep, when landing at Archangel, to hear that
the last pilgrim band has sailed, and that no more boats will cross
the Frozen Sea until the ice breaks up in May next year.
CHAPTER VII.
FATHER JOHN.
Stung by this news of the pilgrim-boat having sailed, and haunting,
unquietly, the Pilgrim's Court in the upper town, I notice a good many
sheepskin garbs, with wearers of the burnt and hungry sort you meet in
all seasons on the Syrian roads. They are exceedingly devout, and even
in their rags and filth they have a certain grace of aspect and of
mien. A pious purpose seems to inform their gestures and their speech.
Yon poor old man going home with his morsel of dried fish has the air
of an Arab sheikh. These pilgrims, like myself, have been detained by
storms; and a hope shoots up into my heart that as the monks must
either send away all these thirsty souls unslaked, or lodge and feed
them for several months, they may yet contrive to send a boat.
A very small monk, not five feet high, with girl-like hair and
rippling beard, which parts and flows out wildly in the wind, is
standing in the gateway of the Pilgrim's Court; and hardly knowing how
it might be best to put the matter in my feeble Russ, I ask him in
that tongue where a man should look for the Solovetsk boat.
"English?" inquires the girl-like monk.
"Yes, English," I reply, in some surprise; having never before seen a
monk in Russia who could speak in any other tongue than Russ. "The
boat," he adds, "has ceased to run, and is now at Solovetsk laid up in
dock."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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