That cloister of St. Nicolas was the point first made by Challoner
when he entered the Dvina from the Frozen Sea.
"You are going over to Solovetsk?" says the Vladika, coming back to
his sofa. "We have no authority in the isles, although they lie within
our See. It pleased the Emperor Peter, on his return from a stormy
voyage, to raise the Convent of Savatie to independent rank, to give
it the title of Lavra--making it the equal, in our ecclesiastical
system, with Troitsa, Pechersk, and St. George. From that day
Solovetsk became a separate province of the Church, dependent on the
Holy Governing Synod and the Tsar. Still I can give you a line to
Feofan, the Archimandrite."
Slipping into an inner room for five minutes, he composes a mandate in
my favor, in the highest Oriental style.
CHAPTER IX.
A PILGRIM-BOAT.
A lady, who knows the country, puts up in a crate such things as a
pilgrim may chance to need in a monastic cell--good tea, calf's
tongue, fresh butter, cheese, roast beef, and indispensable white
bread. These dainties being piled on a drojki, propped on pillows and
covered with quilts--my bedding in the convent and the boat--we rattle
away to the Pilgrim's Wharf.
Yes, there it is, an actual wharf--the only wharf in Archangel along
which boats can lie, and land their passengers by a common sea-side
plank!
Moored to the capstan by a rope, lies the pretty craft; a gilt cross
on her foremast, a saintly pennant on her main. Four large gold
letters tell her name:
В Ѣ Р А
(pronounced Verra), and meaning Faith. Father John is standing on his
bridge, giving orders in a low voice to his officers and crew, many of
whom are monks--mate, steward, cook, and engineer--each and all
arrayed in the cowl and frock.
On the Pilgrim's Wharf, which lies in a yard cut off by gates from the
street, and paved with chips and shavings to form a dry approach,
stands a new pile of monastic buildings; chapels, cells, store-rooms,
offices, stalls, dormitories; in fact, a new Pilgrim's Court. A
steamer can not reach the port in the upper town, where the original
Pilgrim's Court was built; and the fathers, keeping pace with the
times, have let their ancient lodgings in the town, and built a new
house lower down the stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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