French enterprise in Africa : $b the personal narrative of Lieut. Hourst of his exploration of the NigerHourst
History
French enterprise in Africa : $b the personal narrative of Lieut. Hourst of his exploration of the Niger
Hourst
French -- Sudan; Mali -- Description and travel; Niger River -- Description and travel; Tuaregs
Bluzet rides at the head of the caravan, looking back every now and
then, whilst two or three coolies run in the rear or on the flanks of
our little column, like sheep dogs keeping a flock together. About a
hundred yards behind the carts come jolting along on their rumbling
iron wheels, whilst the pack animals bring up the rear.
[Illustration: LIEUTENANT BLUZET.]
For one moment we file silently through the hush and calm of the
tropical night, only broken by the cry of some bird, or the tap-tap
of the Sudan woodpecker. But presently we come to a big hole in
the ground, there is a shout of “Attention—_Kini bulo!_”
(to the right), and from one leader to another the cry _Kini bulo!_
is repeated, and averts a catastrophe by letting every one know how
to avoid the obstacle. A great galloping now ensues to catch up the
leading cart, and this time the difficult place is passed without
accident; but often enough a wheel slips into the bog, and in spite
of all the poor mule’s tugging at her collar there it sticks. We
all have to rush to the rescue, drivers and coolies literally put
their shoulders to the wheel, and with shouts of encouragement and
oaths they finally extricate it. It is out again at last, and we
resume our march.
[Illustration: CROSSING A MARIGOT.]
Then we come perhaps to what is called a _marigot_ in West Africa,
that is to say, a little stream which is dried up part of the year,
and is a characteristic feature of the country. Before the rainy
season it has probably been bridged roughly over, and a few planks
have been thrown down at its edge, but in the torrential downpours
of rain of the winter the planks have sunk, and the bridge has been
partially destroyed. We have to call a halt; to cut wood and grass to
mend the bridge, and carry stones and earth to make stepping-stones,
etc., so that it is often an hour or two before we can get across.
But now the horizon begins to glow with warm colour. The sun is
rising, and as it gradually appears, its rays, which are not yet
powerful enough to scorch us, softened as they are by the mists of
the early morning, give a fresh impulse to the whole caravan. One
of the drivers gives a loud cry, alike shrill and hoarse: it is the
beginning of a native chant, in which the names of chiefs and heroes
of the past, such as Sundiata, Sumanguru, Monson, and Bina Ali,
occur again and again. The singer’s comrades take up the refrain
in muffled tones. Then another negro brings out of his goat-skin
bag a flute made of a hollow bamboo stem, and for hours at a time
keeps on emitting from it six notes, always the same. The porters
also have their music, and our _griot_[3] Wali leads them on a kind
of primitive harp with cat-gut strings, made of a calabash and a
bit of twisted wood, from which hang little plaques of tin, which
tinkle when the instrument is played.
[Illustration: WE ALL HAVE TO RUSH TO THE RESCUE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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