Connected with rural and provincial life are some quaint and pretty
religious ceremonies. I need not refer to the _Fête-Dieu_, familiar
to all travellers in Catholic countries. The sight of this well-known
procession will please or repel you according as it appeals to your
head or your imagination. But a far more picturesque procession, and
one containing an element of poetry not at all discoverable in the
_Fête-Dieu_, is the blessing of the fields and orchards between dawn and
sunrise. What a novel and peaceful treat I used to find this ceremony in
my far-off French schooldays, whereas the Corpus Christi procession was
but a scorching misery! To rise in the blue crepuscular light, with the
early birds just stirring in their nests and heard behind the unshuttered
windows, and emerge from the deep convent porch into the dew-washed
country, following and followed by all the town, walking in two long
lines, widely apart, behind the priests in their stoles and surplices,
and chanting solemn Latin hymns! It was a rich Norman land we wandered
along, now by glittering rills, with the smell of violets in the air, by
narrow green paths through the newly ploughed earth, while the mounting
sun cast joy into our faces, warming the chill spring wind, and provoking
the birds to rival our hymns with their clearer and sweeter notes; then
through continents of apple bloom, whole lakes above of pink-white
blossoms on either side, with rivulets of upper blue seen through the
tracery of foamy waves. Who, watching that solemn procession of amiable
enthusiasts, chanting hymns to God and beseeching Him with confidence
and fervour to bless the earth and all its produce,—wheat, wine, fruit,
and flower, the water we drink, and the grass we tread upon,—could smile
or carp at the sprinkling of the ground, of trees, of river-bed with
holy water? There was something deeply impressive in the hymns sung at
that early hour, while the towns still slept and the woods were scarce
awake. As a superstition it seemed to carry us back to the great primal
superstitions that have run through the earlier religions. It remains
ever upon memory as a large and noble and beautiful form of belief, where
Pagan and Christian of all time meet in their fear of inclement nature.
Religion has ever associated itself with the rural dread of disaster.
Priests say masses for sick cattle, and if the cattle do not benefit by
this harmless custom, the peasants are thereby greatly comforted; they
have the satisfaction of knowing, at any rate, that should the cattle so
prayed for die, it was in the design of Providence, against which even
the prayer of devout man was inefficacious. If religion never made more
injurious concessions than these to ignorance, the wildest freethinker
that ever unsheathed a sword against it must be shamed into laughter at
his bellicose attitude. Indeed, it is not only the Catholics of France
who expect their ministers to stand between them and rural misfortunes
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