Country life is, of course, far less dull than provincial town life; less
unneighbourly, and less destitute of all the charities of existence.
For one thing, nature is the eternal friend, benefactor, and instructor
of man. The thousand vulgarities of towns are forgotten in the midst of
her bounties. A man who lives in bucolic silence, watching the seasons
and counting new-born things, dreaming of oats, of crops, of fruit,
is essentially the superior of his fellows who dwell amid the sordid
details of small towns, commerce, and rivalries, the gossip and drivel
which make a spurious animation in the circles of the provinces. There
are diversities among the type _hobereau_ (a kind of French squire), as
among all other types in France and elsewhere. Many years ago I travelled
through a charming south-western province, furnished amply with letters
of introduction. I well remember the extraordinary contrast between two
families of _hobereaux_ I once visited. A relative of the small squire,
who lived in a dull, quaint little town, drove me out to see her bucolic
son-in-law and his bucolic parents. The family was described to me as
“exceedingly rich.” We entered a brilliant bit of park and avenue on
a hot afternoon in July, drenched with the dews of heat, athirst from
the dust of the broad, long white road. On the _perron_ stood the young
couple and their parents to receive us. The bride was gaudily and
hideously attired in yellow and brown satin and silk; the groom in grey,
with straw hat and leggings, more appropriately adorned the landscape.
He was a heavy-eyed, high-complexioned, silent youth, who seemed at
ease and happy only in the society of his most beautiful dogs. To them
alone did he sometimes discourse in heavy undertones, while he surveyed
me furtively under his lashes in unmistakable awe, but addressed me no
word. His father-in-law looked like a farmer or a yeoman, and cracked
small jokes. He quizzed his son, who blushed the hues of fire, and his
son’s mother-in-law, who ingeniously strove to make me believe that she
did not understand him, and he nudged his daughter-in-law in a way she
must have resented. Without exaggeration, I have never met a more peasant
type of country gentleman in my life. His wife was a simple, ill-mannered
person, who talked chiefly about the weather. The grounds were lovely,
the orchard a splendid dream, but the floors of the “château,” as every
country-house in France is pretentiously called, were mere unvarnished
planks; not a rug anywhere, not a hint of beeswax, and even the
drawing-room was disfigured with ugly presses. When liquid refreshment
was called for—chartreuse and iced water—we were served in coarse
glasses, and the iced water was brought in in a kitchen jug. There
was not even a flower in a vase, not a pretty window curtain, and the
drawing-room chairs were of horsehair. Whatever occult advantages their
wealth may have procured them, it cannot be said that beauty, comfort,
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