In the present divided state of France, with anti-Semitism raging and
disaffection rife in all quarters, even a pacific academical reception
approaches the verbal war waged in the arena of politics conducted
with leisure and urbanity. The ceremonial is imposing and of a supreme
dulness. If you have a centre seat, the wise thing to do is to go early
and amuse yourself by watching the arrivals; or manage to arrive at the
last moment, and you will have the best seat of all, in the very middle
of the hall, literally at the feet of the Immortals. If you know all
Paris, you will enjoy yourself, for you will see and be seen of all
Paris, and the dresses are usually worth looking at. After that you have
the mild excitement of watching the Immortals enter, to your surprise not
in academical raiment, but in ordinary coats, wearing the air of ordinary
men. Only the godfathers of the newly elected, the perpetual secretary,
the chancellor, always the latest member, and the gentleman deputed to
receive the new Immortal wear the sword and palm-embroidered coat. There
are no arm-chairs, but wooden benches ill adapted to the ease of age.
The classical hall is about as squalid and uncomfortable a vestibule of
posterity as one could wish to see, and is so ill-ventilated that, when
it is full, as it always is, to excess, the spectators are frequently
threatened with apoplexy or syncope. Whenever I get away sound and alive
from beneath the celebrated cupola, I always feel that I have escaped
unharmed from actual peril.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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