While in Scotland I explored a large tract of woodland, mainly of Scotch
fir, that covers a hill near Ecclefechan, but it was grassy and
uninviting. In one of the parks of the Duke of Hamilton, I found a deep
wooded gorge through which flowed the river Avon (I saw four rivers of
this name in Great Britain), a branch of the Clyde,--a dark, rock-paved
stream, the color of brown stout. It was the wildest bit of forest
scenery I saw anywhere. I almost imagined myself on the headwaters of
the Hudson or the Penobscot. The stillness, the solitude, the wild
boiling waters, were impressive; but the woods had no charm; there were
no flowers, no birds; the sylvan folk had moved away long ago, and their
house was cold and inhospitable. I sat a half-hour in their dark
nettle-grown halls by the verge of the creek, to see if they were
stirring anywhere, but they were not. I did, indeed, hear part of a
wren's song, and the call of the sandpiper; but that was all. Not one
purely wood voice or sound or odor. But looking into the air a few yards
below me, there leapt one of those matchless stone bridges, clearing the
profound gulf and carrying the road over as securely as if upon the
geological strata. It was the bow of art and civilization set against
nature's wildness. In the woods beyond, I came suddenly upon the ruins
of an old castle, with great trees growing out of it, and rabbits
burrowing beneath it. One learns that it takes more than a collection of
trees to make a forest, as we know it in this country. Unless they house
that spirit of wildness and purity like a temple, they fail to satisfy.
In walking to Selborne, I skirted Wolmer Forest, but it had an
uninviting look. The Hanger on the hill above Selborne, which remains
nearly as it was in White's time,--a thrifty forest of beeches,--I
explored, but found it like the others, without any distinctive woodsy
attraction--only so much soil covered with dripping beeches, too dense
for a park and too tame for a forest. The soil is a greasy, slippery
clay, and down the steepest part of the hill, amid the trees, the boys
have a slide that serves them for summer "coastings." Hardly a leaf,
hardly a twig or branch, to be found. In White's time, the poor people
used to pick up the sticks the crows dropped in building their nests,
and they probably do so yet. When one comes upon the glades beyond the
Hanger, the mingling of groves and grassy common, the eye is fully
content. The beech, which is the prevailing tree here, as it is in many
other parts of England, is a much finer tree than the American beech.
The deep limestone soil seems especially adapted to it. It grows as
large as our elm, with much the same manner of branching. The trunk is
not patched and mottled with gray, like ours, but is often tinged with a
fine deep green mould. The beeches that stand across the road in front
of Wordsworth's house, at Rydal Mount, have boles nearly as green as the
surrounding hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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