We did not suspect we had taken aboard our pilot in the little swallow,
yet so it proved: this light navigator always hails from the port of
bright, warm skies; and the next morning we found ourselves sailing
between shores basking in full summer sunshine. Those who, after ten
days of sorrowing and fasting in the desert of the ocean, have sailed up
the Frith of Clyde, and thence up the Clyde to Glasgow, on the morning
of a perfect mid-May day, the sky all sunshine, the earth all verdure,
know what this experience is; and only those can know it. It takes a
good many foul days in Scotland to breed one fair one; but when the
fair day does come, it is worth the price paid for it. The soul and
sentiment of all fair weather is in it; it is the flowering of the
meteorological influences, the rose on this thorn of rain and mist.
These fair days, I was told, may be quite confidently looked for in May;
we were so fortunate as to experience a series of them, and the day we
entered port was such a one as you would select from a hundred.
The traveler is in a mood to be pleased after clearing the Atlantic
gulf; the eye in its exuberance is full of caresses and flattery, and
the deck of a steamer is a rare vantage-ground on any occasion of
sight-seeing; it affords just the isolation and elevation needed. Yet
fully discounting these favorable conditions, the fact remains that
Scotch sunshine is bewitching, and that the scenery of the Clyde is
unequaled by any other approach to Europe. It is Europe, abridged and
assorted and passed before you in the space of a few hours,--the
highlands and lochs and castle-crowned crags on the one hand; and the
lowlands, with their parks and farms, their manor halls and matchless
verdure, on the other. The eye is conservative, and loves a look of
permanence and order, of peace and contentment; and these Scotch shores,
with their stone houses, compact masonry, clean fields, grazing herds,
ivied walls, massive foliage, perfect roads, verdant mountains, etc.,
fill all the conditions. We pause an hour in front of Greenock, and
then, on the crest of the tide, make our way slowly upward. The
landscape closes around us. We can almost hear the cattle ripping off
the lush grass in the fields. One feels as if he could eat grass
himself. It is pastoral paradise. We can see the daisies and buttercups;
and from above a meadow on the right a part of the song of a skylark
reaches my ear. Indeed, not a little of the charm and novelty of this
part of the voyage was the impression it made as of going afield in an
ocean steamer. We had suddenly passed from a wilderness of waters into a
verdurous, sunlit landscape, where scarcely any water was visible. The
Clyde, soon after you leave Greenock, becomes little more than a large,
deep canal, inclosed between meadow banks, and from the deck of the
great steamer only the most charming rural sights and sounds greet you.
You are at sea amid verdant parks and fields of clover and grain. You
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