The Carlyles were living on this farm while their son was teaching
school at Annan, and later at Kirkcaldy with Irving, and they supplied
him with cheese, butter, ham, oatmeal, etc., from their scanty stores. A
new farmhouse has been built since then, though the old one is still
standing; doubtless the same Carlyle's father refers to in a letter to
his son, in 1817, as being under way. The parish minister was expected
at Mainhill. "Your mother was very anxious to have the house done before
he came, or else she said she would run over the hill and hide herself."
From Mainhill the highway descends slowly to the village of Ecclefechan,
the site of which is marked to the eye, a mile or more away, by the
spire of the church rising up against a background of Scotch firs, which
clothe a hill beyond. I soon entered the main street of the village,
which in Carlyle's youth had an open burn or creek flowing through the
centre of it. This has been covered over by some enterprising citizen,
and instead of a loitering little burn, crossed by numerous bridges, the
eye is now greeted by a broad expanse of small cobble-stone. The
cottages are for the most part very humble, and rise from the outer
edges of the pavement, as if the latter had been turned up and shaped to
make their walls. The church is a handsome brown stone structure, of
recent date, and is more in keeping with the fine fertile country about
than with the little village in its front. In the cemetery back of it,
Carlyle lies buried. As I approached, a girl sat by the roadside, near
the gate, combing her black locks and arranging her toilet; waiting, as
it proved, for her mother and brother, who lingered in the village. A
couple of boys were cutting nettles against the hedge; for the pigs,
they said, after the sting had been taken out of them by boiling. Across
the street from the cemetery the cows of the villagers were grazing.
I must have thought it would be as easy to distinguish Carlyle's grave
from the others as it was to distinguish the man while living, or his
fame when dead; for it never occurred to me to ask in what part of the
inclosure it was placed. Hence, when I found myself inside the gate,
which opens from the Annan road through a high stone wall, I followed
the most worn path toward a new and imposing-looking monument on the far
side of the cemetery; and the edge of my fine emotion was a good deal
dulled against the marble when I found it bore a strange name. I tried
others, and still others, but was disappointed. I found a long row of
Carlyles, but he whom I sought was not among them. My pilgrim enthusiasm
felt itself needlessly hindered and chilled. How many rebuffs could one
stand? Carlyle dead, then, was the same as Carlyle living; sure to take
you down a peg or two when you came to lay your homage at his feet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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