With a suitable companion, I should probably have made many long
pedestrian tours. As it was, I took many short but delightful walks both
in England and Scotland, with a half day's walk in the north of Ireland
about Moville. 'Tis an admirable country to walk in,--the roads are so
dry and smooth and of such easy grade, the footpaths so numerous and so
bold, and the climate so cool and tonic. One night, with a friend, I
walked from Rochester to Maidstone, part of the way in a slow rain and
part of the way in the darkness. We had proposed to put up at some one
of the little inns on the road, and get a view of the weald of Kent in
the morning; but the inns refused us entertainment, and we were
compelled to do the eight miles at night, stepping off very lively the
last four in order to reach Maidstone before the hotels were shut up,
which takes place at eleven o'clock. I learned this night how fragrant
the English elder is while in bloom, and that distance lends enchantment
to the smell. When I plucked the flowers, which seemed precisely like
our own, the odor was rank and disagreeable; but at the distance of a
few yards it floated upon the moist air, a spicy and pleasing perfume.
The elder here grows to be a veritable tree; I saw specimens seven or
eight inches in diameter and twenty feet high. In the morning we walked
back by a different route, taking in Boxley Church, where the pilgrims
used to pause on their way to Canterbury, and getting many good views of
Kent grain-fields and hop-yards. Sometimes the road wound through the
landscape like a footpath, with nothing between it and the rank-growing
crops. An occasional newly-plowed field presented a curious appearance.
The soil is upon the chalk formation, and is full of large fragments of
flint. These work out upon the surface, and, being white and full of
articulations and processes, give to the ground the appearance of being
thickly strewn with bones,--with thigh bones greatly foreshortened. Yet
these old bones in skillful hands make a most effective building
material. They appear in all the old churches and ancient buildings in
the south of England. Broken squarely off, the flint shows a fine
semi-transparent surface that, in combination with coarser material, has
a remarkable crystalline effect. One of the most delicious bits of
architectural decoration I saw in England was produced, in the front
wall of one of the old buildings attached to the cathedral at
Canterbury, by little squares of these flints in brick panel-work. The
cool, pellucid, illuminating effect of the flint was just the proper
foil to the warm, glowing, livid brick.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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