Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Janet Blenkinship and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net [Illustration] FROM A TERRACE IN PRAGUE BY LIEUT.-COL. B. GRANVILLE BAKER, D.S.O., F.R.G.S. WITH 36 ILLUSTRATIONS AND ONE MAP NEW YORK BRENTANO'S PUBLISHERS (_All rights reserved_) _Printed in Great Britain by_ UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, LONDON AND WOKING THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO A WISE AND GENTLE LADY WHO LOOKS OUT UPON LIFE FROM A TERRACE PREFACE There are many excuses for the writing of books, and sometimes there may even be sufficient reason. I offer no excuses, but will give what reasons I have for committing to paper these my reflections or meditations inspired by the sight of a fine old capital city as seen from a Terrace in Prague. The first reason I wish to give may be altruistic, namely, that finding so many of my race quite ignorant of Prague and all that city stands for right down the ages, I feel compelled to add my mite to what has already been written about the subject. My second reason, a strong one with me, arises out of my inability to enjoy things of beauty and interest without letting my friends know about them. This may be a weak and selfish reason, but there it is. The third reason rests on my intense desire that you should come out here, to Prague, even to the terrace of my choice, and look at the scene through my eyes while I would endeavour to see it through yours. This, I admit, is undiluted selfishness on my part. While awaiting you, I am preparing, by means of this work, to introduce you to a goodly throng of those who know or knew this city and loved it well. Perhaps they may admit me to their round table as the last to arrive, and the least. In any case, I owe them a debt of gratitude for their help in becoming acquainted with Prague and the deeper meaning of this glorious city. There are many such kindly helpers: there was Cosmas Pragensis the chronicler, Palacky the historian, there was Count Lützow, whose works on Prague, as on his native country, are inspired by intense love of them, and illumined by transparent honesty. There are others still among us and doing useful work. A walk with Dr. Jeřabek in the gardens of Waldstein's palace, a talk with Professor Škola, and many other good friends of mine in Prague, have made a pleasure of this work I have undertaken. Out of sheer joy in the things I have seen and heard, and the kindly spirit that informed those who helped me, have I written and illustrated this book _From a Terrace in Prague_. CONTENTS PAGE PREFACE 7 CHAPTER I INTRODUCES PRAGUE 14 CHAPTER II ABOUT GUIDES AND GUIDE BOOKS AND THE WEATHER OF PRAGUE 32 CHAPTER III