All went very well, no doubt, for several years, when a calamity befell
the city of Prague: the old bridge, built at her own expense by Queen
Judith, the only link between Prague on the right bank and the Mala
Strana, was damaged beyond repair by winter's floods. Charles, as usual,
rose to the occasion: he built a new one, again laying a foundation with
his own royal hand, and this happened in 1358--on July 9th, to be
strictly accurate. I do not propose to describe the Charles Bridge to
you, as I am supplying an illustration showing it, but I wish to remark
here that Charles is not guilty of the groups of statuary which
distinguish this bridge from others in the world. The only bit of
statuary anywhere near the Charles Bridge which dates from his period
stands near the Mala Strana end of it on the upstream side. This is the
sculptured figure of a knight in armour, bearing the coat of arms of the
Old Town and holding aloft his drawn sword. Dr. Jeřabek calls this
figure "Bruncvik," others call it "Roland"; it was probably put up to
inform passers-by that they had better pay their toll quietly or there
would be trouble.
The piles of the Charles Bridge nearest to the left bank of the river
stand on a little island called Kampa. You cannot see much of this
island from the bridge: I recommend you to go down the steps, under the
bridge, and then look under the second arch, and you will see the view
which I have sketched for you. It is not the view which you will find on
the postcards illustrating this particular spot and calling it "Venice
on the Vltava." In this the Pragers fall into the snobbish habit of
going outside their own country for the sake of finding some inept
comparison. I grant that they are not the only sinners in this respect;
we may even have a "Venice in London," according to those who label the
views on postcards, for all I know. I have, on postcards, met "Venice in
Whatsisname" and elsewhere, wherever there was sufficient sluggish water
reflecting tall houses that have seen better days and conceal their
dilapidations behind motley garments drying in a lazy breeze. But Prague
need not descend to this; here is no "Venice in Prague," but simply a
charming bit of an old town, a fascinating backwater where quaint old
houses exchange reminiscences with their broken reflections in the
water. This ought to be good enough for Prague, anyway.
So Charles threw this bridge across the water, a lasting, glorious
monument to a father ever careful of his children's welfare, and its
stout pillars and graceful arches bid fair to call up reflections for
yet further centuries on the face of Bohemia's own river, the Vltava.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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