Really there is something about this city which is smile-producing. It
is difficult to analyse, and may be attributed to the sheer beauty of
the place. And your smile may well go with a catch in your throat, for
there is always pathos in great beauty, and nowhere more so than here in
Prague. There is the delicate beauty of the Town Hall Chapel, and facing
it the tall steeples of the Tyn Church, with clusters of quaint little
pointed turrets, overtop a row of houses that seem to have set
themselves down with the deliberate intention of blocking the west
entrance. Now these houses are arcaded, and so are those on the south
side of the square. You puzzle for a while and then recall Padua, Verona
and other towns of Northern Italy; so now you know whence came the
inspiration that set up arcades in a northern capital. You ask how and
when this influence came to Prague, so I remind you of the relations
that existed between Bohemia and Italy, and of which I have told you
when discussing King John and his great son Charles. Under the guidance
of the latter, the Renaissance was not long in making its influence felt
in Prague--in fact, in all Bohemia--and Italian architects who
introduced the arcaded house added fresh beauties to the city. To the
earlier period of Italian influence must be attributed a quaint arched
house, the one at the corner of the Tynska Ulice. It seems to block the
west entrance to the Church of Our Lady of Tyn. The old house dates back
to the early days of the fourteenth century, at which period the Tyn
Church, though founded in the eleventh century, was still a-building. I
cannot blame the old houses for having squatted down in front of this
church; they were probably under the impression that it would never be
finished. They have at least left a vaulted alley-way leading to the
somewhat insignificant west entrance. The Tyn Church, though not
completed till fairly recently, has actually served as the principal
church of the Old Town since 1310. Here the reformers, preachers that I
have already mentioned, Conrad Waldhauser and Milič of
Kroměřiže, drew large congregations by their fiery
denunciations and their call to repentance. Our Lady of Tyn is to Prague
what St. Paul's is to London in a certain degree; many celebrities are
buried here, among them that strange character Tycho de Brahe,
astronomer, logician, drunkard and duellist, the friend of Keppler and
his own worst enemy.
The show-entrance to the Tyn Church is a Gothic porch of rarest beauty;
it is tucked away in the little alley on the north side, and generally
closed. You are expected to enter by the south door.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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