A word of warning here: never try to be enterprising between midday and
2 p.m. in Prague, or for that matter anywhere else in the country,
unless it be in search of food. At midday everything closes
down--churches, museums, shops; they do not open again till the good
people in charge of them have had sufficient time for an ample meal--two
hours are considered sufficient. You will therefore find the cathedral
closed to you until the vergers have dined. But in the meantime you will
find the quaint conglomeration of buildings at the east end of the
cathedral very attractive. These buildings originally served many
purposes--cathedral close, market and custom house, and even at times as
bear-garden or zoo. To my thinking, the outside of the cathedral is far
more attractive than the inside, which suffers from over-decoration in
the incongruous style peculiar to Continental churches. I shall not
conduct you personally round the Church of Our Lady of Tyn.
Good King Wenceslaus, of whom we sing at Christmas-time, seems to have
caused the chapel and tower of the Town Hall to be built, at least
according to archæologists; the sign of a kingfisher within a wreath
which appears here is taken to denote work done in his time. The master
architect of those last decades of the fourteenth century was Peter
Parler, who also did a good deal of work on the Tyn Church.
[Illustration: A CORNER OF THE OLD TOWN.]
The tower was added to the house of Welflin od Kamene, which was
acquired in 1538, and some fifty years later the beautiful chapel, the
Gothic projection of which looks out on to the scene of martyrdom of
1621. You will find two very interesting and lovely Sessions Rooms in
this Town Hall. In one of these George Podiebrad, a native of Bohemia
and of the country's faith, was elected and proclaimed King in 1458. To
my thinking, the best time of day on which to come upon this old Town
Hall is of an evening, say in late autumn; approach it by that quaint
little alley, the Melantrichova, called so in honour of Melantrich, who
was famous as printer and publisher in the latter half of the sixteenth
century. While wandering about the narrow alleys, these quaint passages
under the houses, a peculiar feature of Prague, you will pick up
something of the old spirit of the city and repeople it with the shades
of former inhabitants or visitors to suit your taste or knowledge of
its history. There is, for instance, one visitor whom I can quite see
roaming about in nocturnal Prague--Dr. Faust. Local legend prefers to
call him Wilhelm instead of Heinrich, but that does not matter--he fits
into the picture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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