From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
Surrounded by a barren and desolate country, Konia, when seen from
afar, looks like an oasis in the desert. It is situated on an elevated
plateau well-watered by mountain streams and blessed with a salubrious
climate. It was these attractive features that led the Seljukian Turks
to choose it for their capital. Its luxuriant gardens and orchards have
long been famous and add much to the city’s picturesqueness--especially
when viewed from a distance. For when one enters the old Seljukian
capital there is little to attract attention except a few mosques. Of
the old Greek city practically nothing remains aside from the fragments
of friezes, cornices, bas-reliefs, and ancient inscriptions which are
found in the walls which surround the erstwhile Seljukian capital.
Here, as in so many other places in Anatolia, the Turks, when requiring
material for their mosques and palaces, converted the imposing temples
of the Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines into quarries for stone, and
lime. As in Nicæa, a great part of the space within the walls of Konia
is covered with crumbling ruins overgrown with weeds and bushes. The
poet must have had such a scene in his mind’s eye when he penned the
lines:
_There a temple in ruin stands_
_Fashioned by long-forgotten hands;_
_Two or three columns and many a stone,_
_Marble and granite with grass overgrown_
_Out upon time! It will leave no more_
_Of the things to come than the things before._
Modern Konia, a good part of which lies outside of the walls of the
Seljuk capital of the thirteenth century, is composed of one-story
buildings, constructed chiefly of wood and sun-dried bricks. But amid
all the squalor and decay that distinguishes this historic city there
are several mosques and medresses--colleges--which will well repay
careful inspection.
Among the buildings deserving particular attention is the splendid
tekke of the Dancing Dervishes, in which is the tomb of Hazret Mevlana,
the founder of this peculiar order. It is popularly known as the “Blue
Mosque” from the exquisite sapphire and turquoise blue tiles which
until recently covered the cupola that rises above the great turbeh of
the founder. There is nothing in Brusa, Stamboul, or Cairo that can
surpass its rich and delicate traceries and arabesques, its profusion
of jeweled lamps, its wealth, precious tapestries, wondrous faïence,
its magic glories of color from the looms and kilns of Persia and
India. But over and above all this wealth of ornamentation there is a
religious atmosphere that does not exist in the ordinary mosque. For
the dervishes, unlike the orthodox Moslems, make a special appeal to
the emotions of their followers, and hence their widespread influence
and popularity throughout the Mohammedan world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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