From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
We had wished to go from Tarsus to Antakia, formerly the capital of
Syria, which in the days of its greatest splendor was known as “Antioch
the Beautiful,” “The Crown of the East,” “The Metropolis and Eye of
Christendom.” Here the followers of Christ were first called Christians
and here for a long time was one of the most influential seats of the
Christian Church. For generations it ranked next to Rome and Alexandria
as the most important emporium in the great empire of the Cæsars.
During a long period it was also the western terminus of the great
trade route over which was borne
_The wealth of Ormus and of Ind_
for distribution among the marts of Greece and Rome. But lack of time
prevented us from visiting the scattered remains of this once famous
city and we perforce boarded a train on the Bagdad Railway and started
for Aleppo, whose history is in some respects scarcely less eventful
than that of the erstwhile capital of the Seleucids.
We left the Cilician Plain by way of the Bagdad Railroad, which took
us over several well-constructed steel bridges and through a number
of tunnels in the Amanus Range. One of these tunnels, said to be the
longest in Turkey, is more than three miles in length. The roadbed,
bridges, tunnels, stations, and rolling stock of this noted line
compare favorably with those of the best railways in Europe and show,
better than words, what great trade development in the Near East
its projectors had in contemplation when they put their millions in
the Bagdad Railroad. Will they ever receive any return for their
stupendous investment? And, if so, when? Echo asks “When”?
The scenery along the railroad in the Amanus Range and in the plain
on the way to Aleppo is much like that of the Taurus Mountains and of
Cilicia Campestris, where one can truly say with the poet Bryant
_There is a smile on the fruit, and a smile on the flower,_
_And a laugh from the brook that runs to the sea._
Everywhere one comes upon places that are famous in history, both
sacred and profane. Everywhere one passes through lands that during
thousands of years, witnessed the devastations of Assyrians and
Hittites, Persians and Greeks, Romans and Parthians, Mongols and
Saracens and Turks. And everywhere are ruins of Christian temples and
monasteries which recall the glories of the early Church, the triumphs
of her martyrs, and which serve as silent reminders of the days when
Roman governors persecuted the followers of the Crucified because they
were regarded as dangerous to the Empire and when Sassanian satraps
demanded their blood on the ground that they were the foes of the
religion of Zoroaster. Of many of these houses of worship but little
now remains except a few crumbling arches or disintegrating pillars and
doorways. Of others all that is left is buried under a brush-covered
tell where a half-famished goat is seeking a little sustenance or
whence a Turkoman shepherd is watching his nearby flock.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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