From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
Wrapt in the crispy air of a bright October morning, we found ourselves
on the shaky and crowded pontoon bridge that connects Mosul with
the long-buried city of Nineveh. Horses and camels jostled heaving,
shouting, unwashed Turks and Kurds and Arabs, who seemed to be
constantly in imminent danger of being shoved into the swift-flowing
Tigris. The variety of garb and multiplicity of tongues of the motley
and vociferous throng on the swaying and creaking bridge strikingly
recalled the clamorous and varicolored multitude that always crams the
outer bridge between Galata and Stamboul.
How often, during our delightful sojourn in Mosul, had we gazed on
the mysterious mounds on the eastern bank of the Tigris which were
insistently beckoning us to visit them! And how eager were we to
respond to the silent invitation and to explore the site of the once
proud capital of Assyria! But we resisted the persistent temptation
to interrupt our work in Mosul. We had there, with the assistance
of the scholarly sons of St. Dominic, a rare opportunity of getting
first-hand information regarding the social and economical condition of
the people of this part of Asia and of completing our investigations,
begun almost at the inception of our journey, respecting the various
schismatic churches of the East. Not, then, until we had completed
our observations in Mosul and coördinated our impressions, could we
be induced to suspend our self-imposed task. We wished to have it
completely off our hands in order that, once on the historic soil of
Nineveh, we might indulge in reverie without let or hindrance.
When, finally, we were ready to visit the ruins of Nineveh, ours was
the good fortune to have with us a learned Dominican of Mosul, who
was as familiar with the early history of the famous old Assyrian
metropolis as he was with the excavations which during the last two
generations have revealed artistic and literary treasures that have
been the marvel and the delight of the world. We could not have had a
more intelligent or a more enthusiastic guide among the devious ways
which led to the sites of ancient temples and palaces, whose existence
was absolutely unknown until uncovered by the pick and spade of the
archæologist but a few decades ago.
How strange it seemed to me, as we threaded our way through the maze of
passages that led to the locations of once famous palaces and temples,
that it was also a Dominican--a brother in religion of our guide--who
first awakened my interest in Nineveh! That was more than three score
years ago. And yet, so vivid was the impression then made on my
youthful mind that it seems but yesterday when I first came under the
spell of the famed lands of Assyria and Babylonia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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