As many parts of this volume are controversial in character, I have not confined myself to giving simply the results of my own observations and impressions, but I have taken pains to corroborate them by the conclusions of eminent scholars and investigators who have devoted to all the more important subjects long and careful study, and whose opinions, therefore, are entitled to special weight. And that the reader, if so minded, may be able to control my statements and deductions I have invariably given references to my authorities. In the matter of the orthography of Turkish and Arabic proper names I have had the same experience as Howorth refers to when he writes in his _History of the Mongols_: “There are hardly two authors whom I have consulted who spell the names in the same way, and very often their spelling is so different that it is nearly impossible to recognize the name under its various aspects.” This arises from the fact that there is as yet no generally accepted system among English scholars for the transliteration of Turkish and Arabic names. Scientific accuracy, therefore, is in this respect difficult, if not impossible. My sole aim, consequently, has been to make myself intelligible. I have, accordingly, followed the orthography adopted by our standard English dictionaries and encyclopedias. In doing this I have, I am aware, exposed myself to the criticism of Oriental philologists, but I shall, I trust, have compensation in the satisfaction of being “understanded of the people.” IMMERGRÜN, LORRETO, PA. CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE I. ON THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE DANUBE 1 II. THE EUXINE AND THE BOSPHORUS IN STORY, MYTH AND LEGEND 35 III. ROMA NOVA 51 IV. THE HELLESPONT AND HOMER’S TROY 76 V. THE CRADLE OF THE OSMANLIS 94 VI. HOME LIFE OF THE OSMANLIS IN ANATOLIA 121 VII. THE BAGDAD RAILWAY 151 VIII. IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THE CRUSADERS 171 IX. IN HISTORIC CILICIA CAMPESTRIS 193 X. ISLAM PAST AND PRESENT 220 XI. ALONG THE TRADE ROUTES OF THE NEAR EAST 253 XII. FROM THE EUPHRATES TO THE TIGRIS 278 XIII. THE CHURCHES OF THE EAST 303 XIV. NINEVEH AND ITS WONDERS 341 XV. FLOATING DOWN THE TIGRIS IN A KELEK 370 XVI. BAGDAD 402 XVII. MOTORING IN THE GARDEN OF EDEN 437 XVIII. BABYLON 471