From Berlin to Bagdad and BabylonZahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
HistoryChristian
From Berlin to Bagdad and Babylon
Zahm, J. A. (John Augustine)
Middle East -- Civilization; Middle East -- Description and travel
In Ottoman history Brusa is notable for having been the capital of
Orkhan, the second ruler of the Osmanlis and for having long been the
favorite resort of Moslem scholars, artists, poets, and dervishes
who enjoyed a great reputation among their coreligionists for their
reputed sanctity. And even after the transfer of the Ottoman capital
to Adrianople and subsequently to Constantinople, Brusa continued to
be one of the sacred cities of the Mohammedans. For here were buried
the first six Osmanli sovereigns besides more than a score of Ottoman
princes and here “more than five hundred pashas, theologians, teachers,
and poets sleep their last sleep around their first Padishas.” Among
the turbehs which particularly impressed me was that of the Serbian
princess who, although the wife of a Sultan, was able to preserve
untainted the religion of her Christian parents. Here were erected
numerous medresses--colleges--mosques and public buildings whose size
and grandeur were for centuries a favorite theme of Moslem poets and
historians. In beauty of design, richness of material, and exquisite
finish some of the mosques--especially the renowned Green Mosque--are
even to-day regarded as the most perfect specimens of Osmanli
architecture.
Our visit to Brusa was most enjoyable and was an ideal introduction to
our long journey through the Ottoman possessions in Asia. For in this
old capital of the sultans we find more strikingly exhibited than in
noisy, metropolitan Constantinople those dominant characteristics of
most Asiatic cities--apathetic immobility, undisturbed quietude, and
dreamy repose.
But before taking the train at Haidar Pasha we spent a day in wandering
through Scutari and Kadi Keui which are just across the Bosphorus from
Stamboul. Like Brusa both of these places--especially Scutari--are
distinctively Oriental in character and are well worthy of a visit.
Both of them, too, have played prominent roles in the long, historic
past and, although they are now so overshadowed by the great city of
Constantine, they, nevertheless, offer many attractions that are well
worthy of the attention of the student and the historian.
Scutari was formerly known as Chrysopolis--the Golden City. Its special
attractions for tourists are the Howling Dervishes, whose peculiar
devotional exercises take place every Thursday, and the Great Cemetery
which is celebrated as the largest and most beautiful Moslem of burying
places. It is a great forest of cypress trees, more than three miles
in length. Each grave has its tombstone, usually a very modest one.
Some of the epitaphs I observed were very touching, especially those
that terminated with a prayer that a Fatihah--the first chapter of the
Koran--might be said for the soul of the deceased.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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