From Dan to Beersheba: A Description of the Wonderful Land, with Maps and Engravings and a Prologue by the Author Containing the Latest Explorations and DiscoveriesNewman, John Philip
Religion
From Dan to Beersheba: A Description of the Wonderful Land, with Maps and Engravings and a Prologue by the Author Containing the Latest Explorations and Discoveries
Newman, John Philip
Palestine -- Description and travel
The plateau is covered with grass, and
beneath it is a large reservoir, now a garden. Charmed with the spot,
desire inclined us to linger, but prudence warned us to depart. The
waters of El-Haramîyeh have washed the bloodstained hands of many a
highwayman, and the native of to-day hurries on conscious of danger
nigh. A band of robbers were encamped upon the lawn when we reached
the fountain. Some were whiffing their narghilehs; others were testing
their strength in gymnastic sports, while around the captain of the
band two girls were dancing to the music of timbrel and castanets.
They returned our salutations, and, after drinking of the cool, sweet
water, and plucking a few ferns as mementoes, we recrossed the channel,
and began to ascend toward Shiloh. As we advanced the scenery assumed
higher forms of sublimity. The mountains approached each other, and
rose to the clouds; but when, in turn, the hills receded and the
valleys opened, the former were terraced and clad with vineyards,
and the latter planted with wheat and corn. Attired in gay costumes,
peasant-girls were at work on the terraces, singing merrily; shepherds,
with long guns thrown across their shoulders, were winding with their
flocks around the loftier cliffs; while far away to the northwest,
following the devious mountain-paths, were trains of camels and asses,
whose tinkling bells awakened the echoes of the everlasting hills. More
than once we dismounted to gather the tempting wild-flowers, and press
the pretty anemones, poppies, amaranths, and white-thorn roses.
Reaching the head of the valley, we left Sinjil on the west to visit
ancient Shiloh. Before us lay a broad fertile plain, running toward the
Jordan, and in the midst of which stands the Arab town of Turmus ’Aya.
To the north of the village the path leads up a gentle acclivity, and
then, descending into a narrow valley, it gradually ascends through
cultivated fields to the hill on which the renowned city of Samuel
stood. At the southern base of the hill stands an old square tower,
originally a mosque, and over it a large oak spreads its ample branches.
The surrounding hills are round and naked, the valleys narrow and stony,
and the landscape featureless and forbidding. Covering a low ridge,
projecting from the central chain of mountains, are the scattered ruins
of Shiloh. Consisting of heaps of hewn stone, with now and then a
broken column, the remains are embedded in rank weeds and tall grass,
and destitute of the ordinary attractions of a fallen city. Near them
is an old ruined church, which, in the age of the Crusaders, served as
a fortress. The walls, four feet thick, are supported by buttresses.
Over the entrance is a sculptured _amphora_, between two wreaths, and
within the inclosure are a few fallen Corinthian columns. Half a mile
to the east, in a wild glen, is the famous fountain of Shiloh, issuing
from the rocks, and flowing into a deep reservoir, where shepherds
water their flocks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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