From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
The noble Norman church of Wroxeter, near by, has set at its
churchyard gate two Roman pillars with finely sculptured capitals that
have been recovered from the river-bed. Its font is hollowed out of
another Roman capital and looks only half converted. The church is
remarkable for its Easter sepulchre, an arched niche in the north wall
of the chancel, and for its altar-tombs. This Easter sepulchre, where
the crucifix would have been placed on Good Friday to be raised again
with rejoicing on Easter morning, is of creamy stone with ball-flower
ornament. Within the niche are reddish traces of a Resurrection
fresco. The effigies on the altar-tombs have been singularly preserved
from mutilation. Even the rings upon those comely hands that clasp
their prayer-books in the centuried trance of their devotions remain
intact. Here sleeps a Jacobean baronet splendid in scarlet alabaster
robes and broad gilt chain. A peacock is at his head and a lion's claw
at his feet. His lady, from gold head-dress to dainty shoon, is no
less immaculate. May their rest on their stone pillows be forever
unprofaned! In that hushed and almost forgotten sanctuary slumber also
Elizabethan knights and ladies whose tombs, wrought about with quaint
figures, are peculiarly individual and tempted us to closer study than
the waning light allowed.
There were many pilgrimages we longed to make in Shropshire--to the
birthplace and burial-place of Lord Clive, her Indian hero, and to the
home of Lord Herbert of Chirbury, brother of the Saintly George
Herbert, himself a Jacobean courtier only less eminent in letters than
in life. Even bluff Ben Jonson hailed him as "All-virtuous Herbert."
Other Shropshire worthies, who would hardly so have designated each
other, are Richard Baxter and William Wycherley. Two others that I
would like, in the interests of a broader charity, to pair together in
the procession of great Salopian ghosts, are Bishop Percy of the
"Reliques," and Dick Tarlton, lord of mirth, the best-beloved clown of
the Elizabethan stage. The queen herself had a good friend in Dick
Tarlton, for he told her, says Fuller, "more of her faults than most
of her chaplains and cured her melancholy better than all her
physicians."
The inexorable almanac urged us on, but one excursion that we could
not forego was that to Battlefield Church. Thither we drove through
such a tender afternoon, the soft sky brooding close above the earth
as if she loved it, that it was hard to realise associations of wrath
and war. The sun made golden windows in the clouds. The brown Severn
was slyly breaking down its banks as it ran. We took our way through
Shropshire lanes whose hawthorn hedges on either side were fringed
with yellow wisps of rye scraped off from the harvest loads. Beyond we
came upon the harvest fields with their shining stacks. And in
Battlefield Church itself we found, almost rough-hewn from the
tree-trunk, a mediæval image of Our Lady of Pity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account