From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
The three southwestern counties of England, Somerset, Devon, and
Cornwall, reach out, like the hearts of their sons, into the wild
Atlantic. Many a Westward Ho adventure was sped from Bristol,
Bideford, Plymouth, Dartmouth, and even from Topsham, which long
served as the port of Exeter. The far-sea Elizabethan sailors and
their dauntless commanders, those "Admirals All" whose praises a
living poet of these parts, Henry Newbolt, has sung, came largely from
this corner of England. The father of Sir Francis Drake was a
Tavistock tar. That dreamer of illimitable dreams, Sir Walter Raleigh,
was born in the little Devon village of East Budleigh. Another Devon
village, familiar to Raleigh's boyhood, Ottery St. Mary, is the native
place of Coleridge, whose immortal sea-ballad came into being just
over the Somerset border, in those radiant days when he and
Wordsworth, two young poets in the fulness of their friendship and the
freshness of their inspiration, would go wandering together, from
their homes in Nether Stowey, off on the Quantock Hills,--days
commemorated by Wordsworth in "The Prelude."
"Upon smooth Quantock's airy ridge we roved,
Unchecked we loitered 'mid her sylvan courts;
Thou in bewitching words, with happy heart,
Didst chant the vision of that Ancient Man,
The bright-eyed Mariner."
My first view of the Quantocks was had, some years ago, from Exmoor.
Coming through North Devon, we had been walking for hours, knee-deep
in heather, over that high, rolling moorland where the red deer still
run wild. The pollen rose in clouds about our heads. Black-faced sheep
and white-tailed rabbits and startled, flurrying heath-cocks shared,
but did not break, the rapture of that solitude. Bell-heather and
rose-heather and white heather mingled their hues, at a little
distance, in a rippling sea of purple. We lay down in it, and the
fragrant sprays closed warm about us, while the soft sky seemed almost
to touch our faces. We were supremely happy and we hoped that we were
lost. We had long been out of sight of human habitation, but our
compass served us better than we wished, and when, with a covert sense
of disappointment, though the sun was red on the horizon, we came at
last upon a woman and child gathering whortleberries in a dimple of
the moor, we learned that we were, as we should have been, in the
heart of the Lorna Doone country.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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