From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
All lovers of Blackmore's delectable romance remember that its modest
hero, John Ridd, of the parish of Oare, was a Somerset man.
"Zummerzett thou bee'st, Jan Ridd, and Zummerzett thou shalt be." But
the Doone glen, which actually was, in the latter part of the
seventeenth century, the hold of a marauding band of outlaws, lies on
Badgeworthy Water, a part of the Devon boundary. We ate our handful of
whortleberries in Devon, but soon, following directions, found
ourselves on the brow of a steep incline, peering over upon a
farmhouse, known as Lorna's Bower, in the valley below. Scrambling
down the declivity as best we might, we crossed the Badgeworthy by
means of a log and a hand-rail, climbed a fence inhospitably placed
at the end of this rude bridge, and thus made unceremonious entrance
into Somerset. They were gruff of speech at Lorna's Bower, but kind of
heart, and treated the belated wanderers well, feasting us on the
inevitable ham and eggs, with a last taste of Devonshire cream, and
giving us the warm corner of the settle by the great, peat-burning
fireplace. A sheepskin waistcoat, with the wool yet on, lay across the
rheumatic knees of our host, and hams and sides of bacon dangled from
the rafters overhead.
According to the saying "It always rains on Exmoor," the next morning
broke in storm, and we made slow progress under the rain and over the
mud along the Badgeworthy. All our path was a Waterslide, yet we came
at last to the Doone valley, where tumbled heaps of stone mark the
site of the felons' houses. Foxglove and bracken and heather would
have whispered us the gossip of the place, but a sudden spurt of
especially violent rain drove us on to a shepherd's hut for refuge.
Two sportsmen, booted and spurred, with their horses saddled in the
shed, all ready to mount and ride if the Exmoor hunt should sweep that
way, were there before us. One of them told us that his own house had
the dints of the Doones' terrible blows on one of its oak doors. As
the weather had gone from bad to worse, we abandoned our walking trip,
bestowed ourselves in a creakity cart, the only vehicle there
obtainable, and drove past the little Oare church, where John and
Lorna were so tragically wedded, over "Robbers' Bridge," and on to the
top of Oare Hill. Here we paused for a memorable view of the
rain-silvered landscape, with Dunkery Beacon glimmering above. On
through blurred pictures of beautiful scenery we went, into the
village of Porlock, sweet with roses, and plunging down Porlock Hill,
we held on our gusty way to Minehead. The hostelries of this favourite
watering-place being full, we pushed on by an evening train to
Taunton, a fair town of heroic history. In the stormy times of Charles
I, it was twice gallantly defended by Admiral Blake, himself a son of
Somerset, against the cavalier forces. Forty years later, when the
unpopular James II had succeeded to his brother's throne, Taunton
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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