From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
"the island-valley of Avilion;
Where falls not hail, or rain, or any snow,
Nor ever wind blows loudly; but it lies
Deep-meadow'd, happy, fair with orchard lawns
And bowery hollows."
It is only six miles from Glastonbury to Wells, one of the loveliest
cathedral cities of England, not a place to hurry through, but to
settle in and quietly enjoy. Lodgings in Vicar's Close, leisurely
strolls through the gardens of the Bishop's Palace, hours of revery in
choir and chapter-house and Lady Chapel,--it is so that one is taken
to the heart of all this holy beauty. The foundation dates back to the
beginning of the eighth century, but Saxon church melted into Norman,
and Norman into Early English,--substantially the cathedral of to-day,
with that wonderful façade of which Fuller truly said: "England
affordeth not the like." The story of the city is the story of the
church, and the story of the church is one of honour and untroubled
peace. Not being a monastery, it was untouched by the blow that smote
Glastonbury down. The rage of war has passed it by. Its bishops have
left saintly memories. Above this matchless group of ecclesiastical
buildings tender benignities brood like outspread wings. There is
blessing in the very air.
Wells lies in a basin at the foot of the Mendip Hills, which offer
tempting points for excursions. Our most uncanny trip was to Wookey
Hole, where, according to a ballad in Percy's "Reliques," "a
blear-eyed hag" used to dwell. A farmer, groaning with rheumatism,
guided us along a rocky footpath to the cavern entrance, where an
impish boy met us, gave us lighted tapers and himself literally blazed
the way with a can of some lurid-burning oil. After scrambling up and
scrambling down, frequently abjured by our little leader to "mind yer
'eads," we left Hell's Ladder behind us and came out into an open
space known as the Witch's Kitchen. Here was the Witch herself, a
sphinx-like figure made by the petrifaction of the water dripping from
the roof. She received us with a stolid stare, the graceless urchin
threw a pebble at her flat nose, and we gladly scrambled back to upper
day.
I have a pleasanter recollection of Cox's Cave at Cheddar, with its
clearly defined pillars and pinnacles, some amber, some olive, some
transparent, some musical. It requires but little imagination to
distinguish in this fantastic world the queer assortment of "Hindoo
Temple," "Mummy," "Bat's Wings," "Eagle's Wings," "Loaf of Bread,"
"Hanging Goose," "Rat running up a Rock," "Turkeys," "Carrots," and
the splendid "Draperies." There is a place where stalagmite and
stalactite nearly touch,--only one drop wanting, yet in all these
years since Mr. Cox, while prosaically digging for a coach-house,
discovered this elfin grotto, in 1837, that drop has not
crystallised,--so slow is the underground sculptor.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account