From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
Here, or in steering one's course among the Bath chairs that claim a
native's right of way in park and promenade, fancy may choose almost
any companion she will. Pope hated Bath, to be sure, and called it
"the sulphurous pit," but not even Pope kept out of it; Beckford, the
author of "Vathek," lived here; Butler, author of the "Analogy," died
here; Pepys scribbled a page of his "Diary" here; Herschel the
astronomer played a chapel-organ here; Lord Chesterfield's manners and
Sheridan's wit found here an apt field of exercise; but for my
part--and it was a scandalous choice, with the ghosts of Pitt and
Burke, Wolfe and Nelson, Cowper and Scott and Goldsmith and Moore
ready to do escort duty--I wished for the company of Chaucer's Wife of
Bath, for such a piquant gossip could not have failed to add some
entertaining items to the story of the town.
Our final pilgrimage of last summer was made to Clevedon, a lonely
village which has within half a century become a popular summer
resort. It lies
"By that broad water of the west,"
where the Severn merges into the Bristol Channel. Here is Myrtle
Cottage, where Coleridge and his bride had their brief season of joy.
"Low was our pretty cot; our tallest rose
Peeped at the chamber window. We could hear
At silent noon, and eve, and early morn
The sea's faint murmur. In the open air
Our myrtle blossomed; and across the porch
Thick jasmines twined."
It was here that this poet of boundless promise,
"The rapt one of the godlike forehead,
The heaven-eyed creature,"
wrote his "Æolian Harp," his "Frost at Midnight," and other lyrics
touched with an unwonted serenity and sweetness, and here that Hartley
Coleridge was born.
[Illustration: ST. PETER'S CHURCH, CLEVEDON]
But our first walk took us by the beach and across the fields to that
"obscure and solitary church" where lies Tennyson's Arthur, son of
Henry Hallam the historian, and himself a poet. He was in Vienna when
"God's finger touch'd him and he slept,"
and Tennyson linked the Austrian and the English rivers in his elegy.
"The Danube to the Severn gave
The darken'd heart that beat no more;
They laid him by the pleasant shore,
And in the hearing of the wave.
"There twice a day the Severn fills;
The salt sea-water passes by,
And hushes half the babbling Wye,
And makes a silence in the hills."
The ancient church, now but seldom opened for service, was locked, and
we had to hunt for the sexton. It was dusk when he arrived, but we
groped our way to the south transept and, by the light of a lifted
taper, made out the pathetic farewell:
VALE DULCISSIME
VALE DILECTISSIME
DESIDERATISSIME
REQUIESCAS IN PACE
It was this tablet that haunted the restlessness of Tennyson's grief
as, on moonlight nights, he would seem to see that lustre which fell
across his bed slipping into the transept window and becoming "a glory
on the walls."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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