From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
It is all in proportion, all picturesque,--almost in too regular
proportion, almost too conspicuously picturesque, as if it had been
expressly gotten up for the "tripper." There is nothing of primeval
wildness about it. Nature is here the lion tamed, an accredited human
playmate. Indeed, one almost feels that here is Nature sitting for her
portrait, a self-conscious Nature holding her court of tourists and
poets. Yet this is but a fleeting and a shamefaced mood. It takes
intimacy to discover the fact of reticence, and those are aliens
indeed who think that a single coach-drive, even the boasted "circular
tour," has acquainted them with the Lake Country,--yes, though they
trudge over the passes (for it is coach etiquette to put the
passengers down whenever the road gets steep) Wordsworth in hand. In
truth, the great amount of literary association may be to the
conscientious "Laker" something of a burden. Skiddaw thrusts forth his
notched contour with the insistent question: "What was it Wordsworth
said about me?" Ennerdale church and the Pillar Rock tax one's memory
of "The Brothers," and every stone sheep-fold calls for a recitation
from "Michael." That "cradled nursling of the mountain," the river
Duddon, expects one to know by heart the thirty-four sonnets recording
how the pedestrian poet
"accompanied with faithful pace
Cærulean Duddon from its cloud-fed spring."
The footpath you follow, the rock you rest upon, the yew you turn to
admire, Wishing-Gate and Stepping-Stones admonish you to be ready with
your quotation. Even the tiny cascade of Rydal Water--so small as
presumably to be put to bed at six o'clock, for it may not be visited
after that hour--has been sung by the Grasmere laureate. While your
care-free Englishman goes clambering over the golden-mossed rocks and
far within the slippery recesses of Dungeon Ghyll, your serious
American will sit him down amid the bracken and, tranquilly watched
by Lingmoor from across the vale, read "The Idle Shepherd-Boys," and
the exquisite description of the scene in Mrs. Humphry Ward's
"Fenwick's Career." If he can recall Coleridge's lines about the
"sinful sextons' ghosts," so much the better, and if he is of a
"thorough" habit of mind, he will have read through Wordsworth's
"Excursion" in preparation for this expedition to the Langdales and be
annotating the volume on his knee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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