From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
As for the Romans, they seem here like a race of yesterday. A penny
tram took us, in the clear, quiet light of what at home would be the
middle of the evening, out to Stanwix, originally, it is believed, an
important station in the series of fortresses that guarded the
northern boundary of Roman Britain. These frontier lines consisted of
a great stone wall, eight feet thick and eighteen feet high, ditched
and set with forts and towers, running straight from the Solway to the
Tyne, a distance of some seventy-three miles, and a little to the
south of this, what is known as the _vallum_, a fosse with mounds of
soil and rock on either side. The local antiquaries, urged on by a
committee of Oxford men, have recently discovered a third wall, built
of sods, between the two, and excavation and discussion have received
a fresh impetus. Was the _vallum_ built by Agricola,--earthworks
thrown up by that adventurous general of the first Christian century
to secure his conquest? Was the turf wall the erection of the great
emperor Hadrian, who visited Britain in the year 120, and was the huge
stone rampart constructed, early in the third century, by the Emperor
Severus? Or does the stone wall date from Hadrian? Or did he build all
three?
While the scholars literally dig for truth, we may sit on the site of
this mighty, well-nigh perished bulwark at Stanwix, with what is
perhaps the wrinkle left on the landscape by the wall's deep moat
dropping, under a screen of hawthorns and wind-silvered poplars, sheer
at our feet, and thence we may look out across the Eden, with its
dipping gulls and sailing swans, its hurrying swifts and little
dancing eddy, to the heights of Carlisle. For the city is built on a
natural eminence almost encircled by the Eden and its tributaries, the
Petteril and the Caldew. It is a fine view even now, with the level
light centred on the red sandstone walls of the grim castle, though
factory chimneys push into the upper air, overtopping both the castle
and its grave neighbour, the cathedral; but for mass and dignity, for
significance, these two are unapproachable: these are Carlisle.
We must not see them yet. We must see a lonely bluff set over with the
round clay huts of the Britons, and then, as the Roman legions sweep
these like so many mole-hills from their path, we must see in gradual
growth a Roman town,--not luxurious, with the tessellated marble
pavements and elaborate baths that have left their splendid fragments
farther south, but a busy trading-point serving the needs of that
frontier line of garrisons which numbered no less than fifteen
thousand men. Some few inscribed and sculptured stones, remnants of
altars, tombs, and the like, may be seen in the museum, with lamps,
dishes, and other specimens of such coarse and simple pottery as was
in daily use by common Roman folk when the days and the nights were
theirs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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