From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England. — John Shaqi
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.Bates, Katharine Lee
General
From Gretna Green to Land's End: A Literary Journey in England.
Bates, Katharine Lee
England -- Description and travel
We all know Liverpool,--but how do we know it? The Landing Stage,
hotels whose surprisingly stable floors, broad beds, and fresh foods
are grateful to the sea-worn, the inevitable bank, perhaps the shops.
Most of us arrive at Liverpool only to hurry out of it,--to Chester,
to London, to the Lakes. Seldom do the beguilements of the Head Boots
prevail upon the impatient American to visit the birthplaces of its
two queerly assorted lions, "Mr. Gladstone and Mrs. 'Emans," of whom
the second would surely roar us "as gently as any sucking dove." Yet
we might give a passing thought to these as well as to the
high-hearted James Martineau and to Hawthorne, our supreme artist in
romance, four of whose precious years the country wasted in that
"dusky and stifled chamber" of Brunswick Street. And hours must be
precious indeed to the visitor who cannot spare even one for the
Walker Fine Art Gallery, where hangs Rossetti's great painting of
"Dante's Dream,"--the Florentine, his young face yearning with awe and
grief, led by compassionate Love to the couch of Beatrice, who lies
death-pale amid the flush of poppies.
But the individuality of Liverpool is in its docks,--over six miles of
serried basins hollowed out of the bank of the broad Mersey, one of
the hardest-worked rivers in the world,--wet docks and dry docks,
walled and gated and quayed. From the busiest point of all, the
Landing Stage, the mighty ocean liners draw out with their throngs of
wearied holiday-makers and their wistful hordes of emigrant
home-seekers. And all along the wharves stand merchantmen of infinite
variety, laden with iron and salt, with soap and sugar, with
earthenware and clay, with timber and tobacco, with coal and grain,
with silks and woollens, and, above all, with cotton,--the raw cotton
sent in not only from our own southern plantations, but from India and
Egypt as well, and the returning cargoes of cloth spun and woven in
"the cotton towns" of Lancashire. The life of Liverpool is commerce;
it is a city of warehouses and shops. The wide sea-range and the
ever-plying ferryboats enable the merchant princes to reside well out
of the town. So luxurious is the lot of these merchants deemed to be
that Lancashire has set in opposition the terms "a Liverpool
gentleman" and "a Manchester man," while one of the ruder cotton
towns, Bolton, adds its contribution of "a Bolton chap." This
congestion of life in the great port means an extreme of poverty as
well as of riches. The poor quarters of Liverpool have been called
"the worst slums in Christendom," yet a recent investigation has shown
that within a limited area, selected because of its squalor and
misery, over five thousand pounds a year goes in drink. The families
that herd together by threes and fours in a single dirty cellar,
sleeping on straw and shavings, nevertheless have money to spend at
"the pub,"--precisely the same flaring, gilded ginshop to-day as when
Hawthorne saw and pitied its "sad revellers" half a century ago.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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