From London to Land's End: and Two Letters from the "Journey through England by a Gentleman"Defoe, Daniel
History
From London to Land's End: and Two Letters from the "Journey through England by a Gentleman"
Defoe, Daniel
England -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800
From hence, at the end of seven miles over the Downs, we come to the very
ancient city of Winchester; not only the great church (which is so famous
all over Europe, and has been so much talked of), but even the whole city
has at a distance the face of venerable, and looks ancient afar off; and
yet here are many modern buildings too, and some very handsome; as the
college schools, with the bishop's palace, built by Bishop Morley since
the late wars--the old palace of the bishop having been ruined by that
known church incendiary Sir William Waller and his crew of plunderers,
who, if my information is not wrong, as I believe it is not, destroyed
more monuments of the dead, and defaced more churches, than all the
Roundheads in England beside.
This church, and the schools also are accurately described by several
writers, especially by the "Monasticon," where their antiquity and
original is fully set forth. The outside of the church is as plain and
coarse as if the founders had abhorred ornaments, or that William of
Wickham had been a Quaker, or at least a Quietist. There is neither
statue, nor a niche for a statue, to be seen on all the outside; no
carved work, no spires, towers, pinnacles, balustrades, or anything; but
mere walls, buttresses, windows, and coigns necessary to the support and
order of the building. It has no steeple, but a short tower covered
flat, as if the top of it had fallen down, and it had been covered in
haste to keep the rain out till they had time to build it up again.
But the inside of the church has many very good things in it, and worth
observation; it was for some ages the burying-place of the English Saxon
kings, whose _reliques_, at the repair of the church, were collected by
Bishop Fox, and being put together into large wooden chests lined with
lead were again interred at the foot of the great wall in the choir,
three on one side, and three on the other, with an account whose bones
are in each chest. Whether the division of the _reliques_ might be
depended upon, has been doubted, but is not thought material, so that we
do but believe they are all there.
The choir of the church appears very magnificent; the roof is very high,
and the Gothic work in the arched part is very fine, though very old; the
painting in the windows is admirably good, and easy to be distinguished
by those that understand those things: the steps ascending to the choir
make a very fine show, having the statues of King James and his son King
Charles, in copper, finely cast; the first on the right hand, and the
other on the left, as you go up to the choir.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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