From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Exploration always brings its peculiar disillusionments; it had been
better for a proper and enduring reverence of Carn Brea and its gory
Druidic traditions to have gazed and speculated from below than to have
resolved our speculations into facts so uncongenial. For, really, to
view Carn Brea from the valley on a day of mingled storm and shine is
to receive an impression of grandeur and Brocken-like weirdness. The
Druidical cromlechs and stone altars of Borlase’s vivid imagination,
the craggy tower, the modern Dunstanville pillar, break the sky-line
into mysterious points and notches; even the white cottages, the brutal
ugliness of the Dissenting chapel, and the merely commercial aspect of
the tin and copper mines of Pool village, that straggle down into
middle distance and foreground, take a decorative value and strange
significance.
[Illustration: DRUIDICAL ALTAR, CARN BREA.]
The roadways that lead from Pool into Camborne are bordered on either
side with immense heaps of crushed rock and dirt, the roads themselves
grimy with coal-dust, where they are not stodgy with the overflowed red
mud from the mine-adits. Pool itself is notable for nothing, except
that its railway station, now named Carn Brea, was once a fruitful
source of error in sending passengers and goods to Cornwall, instead of
to the Poole in Dorsetshire. Hence the change of name.
Rather more than a mile down the road is Camborne, and midway are the
huge works of that very ancient tin and copper mine, Dolcoath, which
on week-days make the country side resound with the blows of their
steel stamps crushing up the ore-laden rock by the ton. Some of the
galleries of Dolcoath mine are 2300 feet deep, and over five million
pounds’ value of tin and copper ore have been brought to bank. I have
been here on a week-day, when the stamps were at work, and the noise
was simply terrific. I have never heard anything to equal it. Not only
is it impossible to hear or be heard in speaking, but the mind seems
almost to be stunned by the clamour. And to the stranger, the result
of all this uproar is merely so many streams of leaden coloured water,
flowing into what look like great mud reservoirs. But the grey and
slate-coloured particles that go to the colouring of those streams are
so many grains of tin ore, and the neat-looking girls who are stirring
up the reservoirs with brooms are not engaged upon making mud-pies,
but are busily washing the impurities from the metal grains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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