From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Camborne streets straggle almost as far as Dolcoath, and doubtless
many of them are built over some of the galleries and levels of that
immense mine. Camborne is an offence to the eye. It is much larger than
either Truro, Redruth, or Penzance, numbering 15,000 inhabitants, most
of whom live upon mines, either directly or indirectly. Indeed, many
of them live in the mines, and merely come home to sleep. Thus it is
that all day long Camborne seems almost a city of the dead. It is a
town whose houses, if not squalid, are the most abjectly characterless
of any I have ever seen, stony granite affairs, which wear the look of
having once upon a time been inhabited--but a very long while ago, and
meanwhile having been preserved from decay by some mystic preservative
power.
LXV.
The finest thing in Camborne is the road that leads out of it. That
is a clumsy paraphrase of Johnson, I know, touched, too, with a
suspicion of Irishry; but for all that, true enough. I don’t know
that the little hamlet of Barrepper would, with an advent from more
pleasing scenes, have seemed so welcome a place, but after Camborne
it was welcome indeed. A little hamlet, Barrepper, on the highroad
to Hayle. It consists, apparently, of half a dozen cottages, every
one uninhabited and in ruins, and one general shop, which is also the
post-office. One wonders whence come the people to buy and post. No
one was there when we passed by, save the shopkeeper postmaster, and
he sat outside his shop, reading a newspaper in the road. Close by
a brooklet trickled across the highway, under a rude stone bridge,
and this was all of Barrepper. Now the country side became flat and
singularly uninteresting; utterly undistinguished. The mining-field
was left behind, and the streams ran clear again, but the level lands
and the smug hamlet of Carnhell Green, through which we passed,
were featureless. The straggling stony village of Gwinear, too, is
remarkable for nothing but its name--a name, like those of many Cornish
villages, full of possibilities.
The Cornish have a wonderful Procrustean trick of altering proper names
to suit the conveniences of their speech, only the trick works commonly
but one way with them, and that is with the lopping off, rather than
the addition or elongation of, syllables.
For example, the villages and churches of Phillack and Filleigh are
named after the martyr saint Felicitas; and what was once a baptismal
name for girls, Felicity, very often met with in the county, is at this
day not only colloquially but baptismally given as Filly or Philly.[13]
To see these names (as one frequently does) on tombstones of quiet
sober graveyards, strikes the stranger with an effect of misapplied
humour, but a Cornishman sees no levity in them.
But, in Cornwall generally, girls’ names are strangely contorted, as
witness the very favourite appellations of Jenifer for Guinevere, and
Tamsin for Thomasine. These we saw often, and once that rare and pretty
name, Avice.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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