From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
I warn strangers that, before visiting the Mount, it were well to
dismiss from the mind all recollections of it as done into paint and
water-colour, for artists have all tacitly agreed to exaggerate its
height and steepness. Thus, Turner’s grand painting, and Clarkson
Stanfield’s huge achievement in water-colour, would be introductions
by which a subsequent acquaintance with the place would only
disappoint. But then, to expect topographical accuracy in these things
(and especially in Turner’s later work) were indeed vain. The best
point of view for an idea of the Mount is that half-way up to the
left hand, whence this drawing was taken; for here you have bulk and
composition without the need for exaggeration.
The castle, crowning the heights, has still much of interest to show,
though modern additions are everywhere about. Thus, the Chevy Chase
Hall, anciently the refectory of the religious house that once held
sway here, is worthy attention. Its name is derived from the decorative
frieze that runs round its walls, a representation of old-time hunting
scenes. The Royal Arms above, are, of course, a very modern addition,
and the spears and other weapons seen on the walls are, for the most
part, spoils of the Soudan campaigns, brought from Egypt by Lord Saint
Levan’s son, who went through those expeditions.
The chapel, too, though now bare enough, is of Perpendicular date.
A horrid _oubliette_ is shown beneath the stalls, a small chamber,
without light or air or any outlet when the paving-stone above is
lowered to its place in the floor. Some years since, when this dismal
living tomb was accidentally discovered, the skeleton of a man of
extraordinary stature was found within. Who he had been must ever
remain matter for conjecture--poor wretch, left here to be forgotten.
[Illustration: CHEVY CHASE HALL]
It is a darksome climb to the battlements of the old tower of the
castle, so high above the world. Penzance and Newlyn lie below in the
distance, and their white walls flash upon the grey of granite and the
dull green of the moors beyond. Presently, as you gaze, comes a trail
of smoke from eastward, and the “down” train glides into the wayside
station of Marazion Road, bringing its complement of holiday-makers,
who will swarm up the Logan Rock, sail to Lamorna, adventure (if they
be hardy pedestrians) to Porthgwarra or Saint Levan (whence Sir John
Saint Aubyn’s jubilee peerage), or Cape Cornwall; but those spots
are innumerable where the tourist loves to dwell. Above all places
he goes to Land’s End, but never or rarely does he hie him eastward,
to Perranuthno, to Cuddan Point, or to Pengersick. Civilisation goes
ever westward, and, as the tourist is its peculiar product, ’tis only
fitting he should follow its march.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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