From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
I recollect another day, when we went to Land’s End, along ten miles
of ofttimes rough and heavy walking, through Alverton’s lanes, along
the short stretch of dusty road that passes by the wrecked sea-wall,
designed to join those near neighbours of Penzance and Newlyn, but
demolished by the first storm that rolled in from the south-west.
We sat upon the tumbled blocks of granite, and captured this view of
the town, and then came upon Newlyn and its decaying school of artists.
What has become of the Newlyn School, so-called, that ephemeral
blossom? Are we to assume that, its leading exponent having won to
academic honours, its mission is fulfilled?
[Illustration: PENZANCE.]
They were only a _dilettante_ set we saw at Newlyn, painting the
ramshackle old bridges and their loungers. Artists have painted these
old bridges over and over again, have composed groups of bronzed,
blue-jerseyed fishermen leaning over their parapets and gossiping,
and have given, with the convincing surety of the Newlyn touch, the
laughing, tinkling stream that flows beneath the arches, presently
to lose itself in the shallow waters of the bay. The amateur
photographer, too, is never weary of well “doing” the place. I prefer
the paintings to the photos, because, although I have a happy liking
for realism and truth, I draw the line at the camera’s uncompromising
rendition of battered tin cans, broken crockery, fish offal, old boots,
and other unpicturesque and sordid objects that lazy housewives cast
out of window into the water.
[Illustration: LUDGVAN LEAZE.]
Sad, indeed, is the state of the picturesque stream or romantic glen
that borders upon a camp of civilisation, for abundance of old boots
and sardine tins are the reward of the diligent botanist or natural
historian in these gates; bracken grows not more profusely than are
strewn the shards and potsherds of the neighbouring town. But no
matter how frequent and plentiful the wreck and refuse in the matter
of bottomless kettles, superannuated umbrellas, and broken dishes,
the Old Boot is the commonest object of the seashore, highway, by-way,
lane, or ditch--no mountain too high, no valley too deep for it to be
found. The angler lands it with language and dashed expectations from
the trout stream; the trawler finds it unaccountably in his trawl-net
when he returns from the bay; the ploughman disinters it from the
field; and children dig it up from the sands: everywhere is the Old
Boot. I have communed with Nature, and rambled amid the wildest and
loneliest of scenes, when my meditations have been arrested by old
boots, and at once the poetry and romance of the scene have flown away.
Truly, there is nothing like leather.
LXVII.
But this is a turning out of the path; let us on to Land’s End, up
Newlyn’s lanes, whose inhabitants fall into poses as the artist passes
along, so sophisticated are these one-time simple folk become.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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