From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
It seems that everywhere the iron gauntlet gives way to the kid glove
in our times; persuasion is to-day more a mental than a physical
process. There are relics in plenty at Windsor and Eton of those times,
only at Windsor these things take higher ground: _there_ for persuasion
read diplomacy in this era, where it had used to be a performance
requiring the assistance of axe and chaplain. The Castle survives,
its mediæval defences restored, for appearance sake, but its State
apartments filled with polite furniture, dreadfully gilded and (we
thought) tawdry. It makes a picture, this historic warren of kings and
princes, and its Round Tower commands a glorious view, altogether an
imposing range of turrets, battlements, and loopholed walls; but, alas!
Henry the Eighth’s massive gateway was guarded by a constable of that
singularly unromantic body--the Police, and his presence there made
everything save the gas-lamps and the shop-fronts of Windsor streets
seem of paste-board fashion and unreal.
[Illustration: STAIRCASE IN ETON COLLEGE.]
The river is the proper place from whence to view the Castle: the time,
early morning; for then, when the mists cling about the water, and the
meadows are damp with them, that palace and stronghold, that court
and tomb of royalty bulks larger than at any other time, both on sight
and mind.
[Illustration: WINDSOR: EARLY MORNING.]
Thus we thought, when the early hours of the morning found us afloat
again. Boveney, Monkey Island, were passed, and now arose above all the
trees, the tall poplars that identify Bray to the distant view more
surely than church or anything contrived at the hands of man. They
range in rows, and are at once formal and touched with a delightful
note of distinction. The village, too, is of the quaintest, with
almshouses that should make the poverty housed within them dignified
with a dignity that we who live in London’s hutches of brick and
mortar, and are numbered with a plebeian number, may never know.
And at this Bray (we are told) lived that weathercock vicar, who
twirled with every political wind, and by his dexterity kept his
benefice and earned immortality. O most sensible Vicar of Bray: wholly
admirable and right reverend exponent of expediency!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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