From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
This slow poisoner, if painter and mezzotinter lie not who have handed
down her portraiture to our times, was peculiarly beautiful, with an
eighteenth-century grace, a swan neck, and a sweetness of expression
that, if any truth there be in views that take the face as index to the
mind, would seem to shadow forth nothing but virtues minor and major.
At the “Red Lion” by the bridge we supped and slept, possibly attracted
to this particular hostelry by Shenstone’s famous lines--
“Whoe’er has travelled life’s dull round,
Where’er his stages may have been,
May sigh to think he still has found
His warmest welcome at an inn.”
[Illustration: EVENING AT HENLEY.]
Boating men comprised almost the whole of the company at the Red Lion,
and the talk was solely aquatic, dealing with races--past, present, and
to come--with sculls and sliding-seats, and all the minutiæ of water
pastimes.
VII.
This morning we rowed through Marsh Lock, struggled through the mazes,
snags, and shallows of Hennerton Backwater, and lazed in the sunshine
at Wargrave, that picturesque beach and village set over against the
flat green meadows of the Oxfordshire bank. Then (for the spirit of
exploration grew strong again) we laboriously shoved, rather than
rowed, our craft through the esoteric windings of the Loddon River
and Patricksbourne, arriving some hours later on the hither side of
Shiplake Lock, with the unexpected satisfaction of having thus saved
some pence from the clutch of the Thames Conservancy.
[Illustration: Sonning Bridge.]
At the Bull at Sonning we dined in a parlour gay with geraniums, with
windows shaded by vines and creepers, with old-fashioned fire-place
surmounted by a huge stuffed fish--a typical river-side inn--and
thereafter rowed up from Sonning to Reading, where, by the filthy
Kennet side, we left our boat for return to its owner, in the usual
Thames-side practice.
We came to Reading prepared for anything but charm in that town of
biscuits, and we were not inclined to alter our ready-made opinion upon
sight of it. We passed through “double-quick,” leaving the last of
the town as late as 8.30. He who runs may read, perhaps, if the type
be sufficiently large; but I don’t think he would find it possible to
write: we did not, and so this book must go forth lacking a description
of Reading.
The train that carried us from this town of almost metropolitan savour
jogged along in most leisurely fashion past Mortimer Stratfield, and
finally brought up at Basingstoke, where we went to bed with what haste
we might.
VIII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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