From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
But we anticipate, as the artless novelist of another generation
was used to remark, with a painful frequency. Before Winchester,
Basingstoke. This morning, we took an early walk to Sherborne St. John,
an outlying village, now suburban to Basingstoke, a village, as it
proved, uninteresting. The church, as was to be expected at 8 a.m., was
locked: our only reminiscence of the place, then, is this problematic
inscription from the doorway. Returning, we made a nearer acquaintance
with that ruined chapel--the chapel of the Holy Ghost--familiar to all
travellers by the South-Western Railway, standing as it does beside the
Station. Here was established the lay Fraternity of the Holy Ghost,
founded at that late period when Gothic architecture began to feel the
influence of the Renaissance. The mixed details are very interesting,
though, unfortunately, much mutilated. Gilbert White, the historian
of Selborne, says he was, when a schoolboy, “eye-witness, perhaps
a party concerned”--observe the grace of later years that made him
ashamed of the occasion, and willing to doubt his participance--“in the
undermining a vast portion of that fine old ruin at the north end of
Basingstoke town.” The motive for this destruction (he says) does not
appear, save that boys love to destroy what men venerate and admire;
the more danger the more honour, and the notion of doing some mischief
gave a zest to the enterprise.
“It looked so like a sin it pleased the more.”
The Chapel stands within the cemetery known locally as the Liten.
Within its walls are two mutilated effigies on altar-tombs, the sole
remains of a building long preceding the present ruin, hacked and
carven with many penknives.
[Illustration: Holy Ghost Chapel, Basingstoke]
Modern Basingstoke--“name of hidden and subtle meaning,” as Mr. Gilbert
says in “Ruddigore”--is prosperous, cheerful with the ruddy mellowness
of red-brick, and loyal with a lofty Jubilee belfry-tower to its Town
Hall; and that is all the spirit moves me to set down here of the town.
IX.
No more dreary road than that sixteen miles between Basingstoke and
Winchester; a road that goes in a remorseless straight line through
insignificant scenery, passing never a village for twelve or more
weary miles, a road upon which every turning leads to Micheldever.
Sign-posts one and all conspire to lead you thither, with an unanimity
perfectly surprising. We made certain that something entirely out of
the common run was to be found at that place of the peculiar name, and
so we were ill enough advised to visit it by turning aside for the
matter of a mile.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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