From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End — John Shaqi
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Of feudal Winchester much has been destroyed; but from the remains of
its two great castles, and of the city gates and walls, one may conjure
up the city of the two first Norman kings, held under stern repressive
rule, when despotic power lay in the hands of alien king and noble.
Then the New Forest lying near was a newly created desolation; and
the country-side, now dotted with villages, a sparsely settled tract.
And even in the city itself there were long hours when all was silent
and lonely; for when the curfew rang out, who dared to disobey its
warning note? Then the city was given up to darkness, the watchmen at
the closed and guarded gates, and the sentinels pacing the walls; for
though, mayhap, there were no danger threatening from without, it must
perchance be watched for and combated from within.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO THE CLOSE, WINCHESTER.]
The curfew bell has been sentimentally revived, and tolling nightly
from the old Guildhall, awakens dim vistas of social history. The
custom has, of course, lost all its harsh significance, but it is one
not lost upon him who cares for tradition in an age that makes for
novelty; when vaunting soaps affront the eye of the wayfarer in their
garish advertisements, and the voice of the touter (commercial, social,
political, and religious) is heard in the land crying new lamps (of
the sorriest) for old.
But the word “lamps” reminds me that Winchester public lamps have long
been lighted with oil, for the Corporation and the Gas Company have
agreed to differ; so, pending wiser counsel in the Company’s ranks, the
City Fathers, good souls, put back the clock of social history some
sixty years by re-adopting paraffin as an illuminant.
Thus local history wags at Winchester, with but few excitements, and
those magnified to things of greatest import, by reason of their rarity.
To attempt to give here the briefest outline of Winchester’s long
and stirring story were indeed vain; but a succinct account of its
Cathedral may be of interest, as therein lies in these days most of
the charm of the place. It is an epitome of architectural history
unsurpassed in England.
One might, as a stranger, wander through the city for some while
without finding the Cathedral, and then, perhaps, be compelled to
inquire the way, for it is not possessed of soaring spire nor lofty
towers, to guide the pilgrim from afar.
The first impression one gets of the building is of its great length:
it is, indeed, the longest cathedral in England. The exterior, seen
from the north-west corner of the close, is, perhaps, disappointing,
with its long, unbroken, roof-line and low central tower, showing an
almost entire absence of that picturesque grouping which is the charm
of many others. But Winchester Cathedral has an interior equalling, if
not surpassing, all others in beauty and interest.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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