From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
Shining with midsummer brilliancy, the sun heated the still air until
all movement was irksome, and energy became entirely out of the
question; so there was nothing for it but to recline in limp fashion
on a hay-rick beside the white and dusty road, lazily noting the
passers-by. Few indeed were they who passed down the village street--a
shepherd, with barking dog and unruly flock, making in their passage a
smother of dust that loaded the hedges with yet another white layer;
and, as afternoon wore on, a girl went with pitcher to the well. The
sound of buckets being lowered, and the splashing of water as they
were wound up, made one feel positively cool. Then came a dull booming
that now and again startled the stillness: gun practice off Spithead,
without doubt.
Then the sound of Winchester chimes echoed across the four miles
of intervening country, and we climbed down from our resting-place
and walked up through the village. We were dreadfully thirsty, and,
discovering a little inn, passed through the doorway into its stone
passage, cool and grateful after the glare outside. The beer was, not
to mince words, beastly; but we had a conversation with the rustics,
who were sitting or standing in the sanded parlour with striped and
coloured beer-mugs in their hands.
“Quiet place, this, sirs,” said one, by way of opening a talk.
“Yes,” said my companion, “it seems so; is it always like this?”
“Well, yes, ’tis, in a manner o’ speakin’, an’ yet ’tisn’t, if so be ye
can onderstand me. Leastways, ’tis always quiet like to toun-folk like
yourselves; but we has our randys now an’ than, hain’t we, neighbours?”
“Ay, that we has.”
“D’ye mind Jubilee time?” A general laugh followed this inquiry, but to
us strangers the allusion was cryptic, and provoked no smile.
But there was one dissentient; he was not a native of these parts.
“Randys,” quoth he, “ne’er a one of ’ee has seen such rollickings as we
uns used to have up to Amport.” Here one of the company stage-whispered
to us, hand to mouth, that “Will’m Benjafield was a old, understanding
man, as comed from Andover way.”
“Ay,” said our ancient, “I mind well enow the time when the gr’t house
to Amport were open house, as ye may say. ’Twas in the old Markis o’
Winchester’s young days. They’m a old ancient fam’ly, the Paulets:
ye can see their three golden daggerds on the carving o’ Winchester
Guildhall clock to this day. But ’tis many a long day sence the
feastin’s and drinkin’s to Amport House. ’Tis small beer now, ’stead
o’ good yale, an’ that _do_ make a man’s stummick to wamble tarrible,
sure-ly. I’d ’low the zilliest gawk-hammer in them there days drunk
better liquor nor the best o’ you uns in these here, an’ the raggedest
jack-o’-lent had a crust an’ cheese for the asking o’ it, an’ suthin
better nor a tankard o’ swipes to swill his gullet wi’. ’Twas a bit
an’ drap anywhen ye were plazed to ax fort. What dosta say, stunpoll?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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