From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
And Lyndhurst is as pretty a village as one could wish to see. It
is the metropolis of the New Forest, if that portentous word is not
too big to apply to this little gem of a place. Here come all them
that would make a thorough exploration of the leafy alleys and dim
recesses of these woodlands, and as it chances that the democratic
taste inclines rather to the fearful joys of Ramsgate or Margate than
to forest scenery, Lyndhurst wears an air aristocratic and exclusive,
and its visitors are eminently “nice.” True, we saw a brakeful of
bean-feasters pledging one another (the ladies as deep-drinking as the
men) in pewter tankards outside the Crown Hotel, but if one swallow
doesn’t make a summer, surely it must be allowed that one bean-feast
does not convert Lyndhurst into a semblance of Rye House and Broxbourne.
[Illustration: LYNDHURST.]
Lyndhurst, then, exists for the moneyed visitor, and is a model
of neatness and propriety. Round about it, seventeenth- and
eighteenth-century mansions nestle amid thick bowers. In the centre
of the village rises the tall, obtuse-pointed spire of the modern
red-brick church, set conspicuously on its high mound, and below, to
emphasise the eternal propinquity of Beer and Bible, stands the Crown
Hotel and Tap. But the most picturesque grouping of these different
estates is where the church spire rises high above the roof of the “Fox
and Hounds,” as I have here endeavoured to show.
Three and a half miles down the road is Brockenhurst, a pretty
place--I know it well--but this afternoon broken out into a rash of
flags and flaunting bannerets in primary colours, and swarming with
excursionists, who celebrated some occasion connected with a Widow and
Orphan Society. These we soon left behind, crossing the railway, and so
into the country again.
The London and South-Western Railway spells the place Brokenhurst,
reckless of the philology of the name. “Brock” is Anglo-Saxon for
badger, and in the same way “hurst” stands for “wood”; thus with the
plural “brocken,” Badgers’ Wood stands revealed. But philology and the
bygone natural history of places are nothing to railway companies.
[Illustration: A FORD IN THE NEW FOREST.]
In the hot glare of noonday we came through a heathy land to a sandy
ford where a stream, the Avon Water, rippled across the road, and a
crazy footbridge spanned the current. Brilliant lepidoptera floated
lazily in the air, blundering humble bees boomed in many cadences, and
the Avon sang a happy song among the grasses and the slight timbers of
the bridge; I wish I knew the secret of its joy.
XVII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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