From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
The next morning, when the farmer’s men came down to the sands with
their carts for the seaweed thrown up by the storm over night, they
were astonished at beholding a face in the cliff’s overhead, and,
standing out in the sea, crowned with screaming cormorants, and
buffeted by the heavy waves, a tall pillar of rock which had not been
there before.
I take this moving story as a warning to parish clubs to be careful in
the selection of their vicars.
XXXVI.
From here it is a two miles’ walk along the sea-wall into Teignmouth.
Time and again, in winter storms, hundreds of feet of massive masonry
have been torn down, and often carried away bodily, by the sea, and on
two or three occasions great landslips have occurred from the soaring
red-sandstone cliffs overlooking the railway. Railway engineering here
is no play.
“Teignmouth” (says my Bædeker) “is a large watering-place, prettily
situated at the mouth of the Teign.” Thus far the guide-book. It
is a peculiar feature of this class of literature that information
is hurled at one’s head in stodgy lumps, in which are embedded
measurements and statistics, enclosed in brackets sprinkled over the
pages, like--like currants in a penny bun. Yet there are misguided folk
who read guide-books continuously: these are people with an insatiable
rage for general information, who spout dates at every turn.
[Illustration: RAILWAY AND SEA-WALL, NIGHT.]
[Illustration: From East Cliff, Teignmouth]
But Teignmouth may well be termed a watering-place, if one may take
the fact of its being partly surrounded by water as a valid claim to
that obscure appellation, although I wot of places bearing it which are
like unto the great Sahara for dryness.
The town, which ranks next after Torquay in size, is continually
growing, and climbing up the hillsides. They have built in every
direction; the tunnels that were used to render its railway station
even as the stations of the Metropolitan Railway for gloom have been
opened out; the pier has burst into a dreadful variegated rash of
advertisements, and the bathing-machines are blatant with the name of a
certain Pill.
But with the growth of the town, the local rates, say the ratepayers,
with doleful intonation, keep pace, and the ambition of the local
governing body accompanies the onward march, and tends to o’erleap
itself in matters of public improvements.
There is the market-house for the pointing of an example. I well
remember the cavernous ramshackle old place that stood here years ago,
a dim and dismal hole, where the blinking, owl-like stall-holders sold
beans by the hundred and (so say the malicious) peas by the dozen.
The Local Board pulled it down, which was, by itself, a well-advised
action; but when there presently arose on its site another building
devoted to the same purpose, wiseacres shook their heads and prophesied
evil things.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account