From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
When Teignmouth sages foretold these things, they displayed a foresight
that would not have disgraced the Delphic Oracle; for, although the new
market was in every way adapted to modern needs, yet in a short while
its complete failure, commercially, was sufficiently demonstrated, and,
to this day, he who would be alone and shun his fellow-men, betakes
himself to the market, and broods there undisturbed. You may wander
in the by-lanes of the countryside, or sit upon the hardly accessible
rocks beyond the Ness, but, even then, you shall not be so secure
from human gaze or so unutterably lonely as in the “market.” Yet the
business of the town has not decayed; neither, I suspect, are the
tradesfolk less prosperous than of yore: the market simply was not
wanted.
[Illustration: THE TEIGN.]
When we were at Teignmouth we became of a mildly inquiring turn of
mind, and wandered along the sands to where the Teign flows out, across
the sandy shifting bar, into the sea. Across the wide estuary is the
fishing-village of Shaldon, now growing out of all knowledge, and the
bold red front of the Ness, crowned with firs, confronting the waves.
[Illustration: TEIGNMOUTH HARBOUR.]
Round here by the sand spit, past the battery _pour rire_, is the
little lighthouse, and behind it the lifeboat-house, with its window
illuminated at night, where the barometer and weather-chart are
anxiously scanned in the summer months by eager visitors. For the
proverbial inconstancy of the weather is very marked here. One may
stand looking up the Teign in fine weather, to where the Dartmoor hills
loom grey in the distance, and presently see the rain-clouds gather and
sweep swiftly down the valley, blotting out the landscape with driving
mist; and yet, in a little while, it shall be all bright again with
sunshine. It is, indeed, not often that a day in Devon is entirely
hopeless, for clouds disperse frequently as quickly as they come. It
is to this moist climate that softly beautiful Devonshire owes its fair
name.
Behind the lifeboat-house is the harbour, where is to be found the
real life of the place, as distinguished from that entirely different
existence lived in summer months on the sands, the pier, or the Den,
that wide lawn fronting the sea.
Teignmouth, in fact, is not merely a summer resort. It has a select
and proper society, which is nothing if not dignified and stately,
Teignmouth society being composed of retired half-pay officers and
their families, with slim purses and inflated pride--a curious and
exceptional combination. The attitude of this circle is one prolonged
sniff.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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