From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's EndHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
General
From Paddington to Penzance: The record of a summer tramp from London to the Land's End
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel
We took his directions, and were rewarded by presently coming into
Dittisham, in receipt, by the way, of a sudden and startling view of
Torquay and Marychurch, eight miles away as the crow flies, and yet
perfectly clear and distinct.
Down through Dittisham lanes we went, past the great grey tower of
the church, with its sun-dial, on to the beach of the river at ebb.
Here were several plum trees, loaded with plums; a small variety, dark
blue, more like damsons, and hard, and not too sweet. We, I grieve to
say, plucked many of these plums and ate them; but there was a Nemesis
attendant on the act.
The beach was practicable for some distance, until the water on one
side, and a high padlocked gate decorated with spikes and nails on
the other, seemed to bar all further progress. We carefully scaled
the gate, and dropped into the meadows on the other side, leaving
a record of our progress in the shape of a fragment of the Wreck’s
clothing fluttering aloft in the breeze. A toilsome climb through
many fields and thick hedges brought us to a vantage point, whence we
could see our goal--Dittisham Quay--below, situated on a narrow isthmus
beside the Dart, where the river doubled on its course. Close beside
it miraculously appeared the village we had left. We had painfully
traversed three miles of this promontory, instead of crossing the
narrow neck of land that alone separated village and quay.
Tea was a grateful meal indeed after this. We took it at the open
windows of an inn that looked upon the water, and when the meal was
done the sun went down. The air grew intensely chill, and the mists
crept along the face of the water. I had just touched in the last
notes of Dittisham Quay, when the whistle of the steamer sounded up
river, and the vessel came swiftly round the Point. We were the only
passengers from Dittisham, and were soon put aboard. This steamer
was one of the smaller boats that ply on the Dart, with furnace and
boiler-covering on deck. We sat on the hot iron, the Wreck and I, and
felt happy as the heat worked through. Now and again the crew (two
all told) would open the furnace door, and the light from the glowing
coals would shine on their faces with a ruddy glow, intensified by the
steely-blue water and the dark background of hills, until they looked
like so many devils from hell.
We nearly ran down in the darkness a small launch, whose occupant had
(one of the crew observed) suddenly “shifted his hellum”--whatever
that may mean, and then we ran alongside the _Britannia_ and the
_Hindostan_ training-vessels, with their lights streaming brilliantly
through many ports on to the tide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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