From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to NorthGrogan, Ewart Scott
History
From the Cape to Cairo: The First Traverse of Africa from South to North
Grogan, Ewart Scott
Africa -- Description and travel; Grogan, Ewart Scott, 1874-1967
Then followed two of the worst days of my life. Rapid movements alone
could save us from annihilation, and we travelled from sunrise to
sunset, camping in patches of forest, and concealing our route by
leaving the paths and forcing our way through the grass. Mummies,
skulls, limbs, putrefying carcases washing to and fro in every limpid
stream, marked the course of the fiendish horde. An insufferable stench
filled the land, concentrating round every defiled homestead. This was
the Congo Free State. Fear of being rushed at night made sleep
well-nigh impossible, tired as we were. The country was exceedingly
beautiful. Wild stretches of undulating hills, streaked with forest and
drained by a hundred streams, each with its cargo of bloated corpses,
made a terrible combination of heaven and hell. It was a scene that
made one wonder if there be a God. To the west I could see two lakes
nestling between the hills. A stream connects the two, and empties out
at the south end, flowing, I imagined, towards the Congo. Flights of
gorgeous butterflies floated here and there, and, settling on the
gruesome relics, gave a finishing touch to the horrors of that land.
Leaving Kishari, we passed over the watershed, about 9,500 ft., and
descended into Kameronse. Here we were met by the same scenes of
desolation; the whole country had been swept clean--not so much as a
sweet potato, which grow almost as weeds, was left. As we were skirting
along a large papyrus swamp, which absorbs all the neighbouring streams,
we came on the fresh spoor of natives. I had only just seized my gun,
for which I had to wait about ten minutes, when a woman, girl, and two
small boys appeared. These my natives captured; and no sooner did the
woman realize that she had fallen into undesirable quarters, than she
offered to show us where her relations lay. I followed the direction
indicated with great caution, the way leading through very tall and
thick grass; and as I turned a corner, my guide flashed past me like a
streak of lightning, and I found myself confronted by half a dozen
gentlemen of anthropophagic proclivities on supper intent. The
unexpected apparition of a white man checked their rush, and dodging a
spear, I got my chance and dropped one with a shot through the heart,
two others escaping by my magazine failing to feed the barrel. We
rushed on in pursuit, and shortly came on their encampment in a banana
grove; here were the same ghastly relics as we had seen before. It
appeared that they had raided an outlying village of Bugoie the previous
night, and had caught two unfortunate wretches, whose remains were
baking and stewing in pots. From the number of the rude huts there must
have been at least fifty Baleka, but they had disappeared into the grass
and papyrus, and we saw no more of them. Some baskets of grain were
lying about, and these the Manyema eagerly seized upon; but I could not
bring myself to eat any, and my Watonga were equally fastidious,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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